Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur

  • Le Gorille

    St-Tropez

    This portside hang-out gets its name from its previous owner – the short, muscular and apparently very hairy Henri Guérin! Stop here for breakfast or a…

  • Le Pacha du Sloop

    Côte d'Azur

    With its elegant red-and-blue nautical decor and portside terrace within grasp of the bobbing yachts, Le Sloop is a cut above the rest on this popular…

  • L'Entrevue

    Arles

    There's a French portion to the menu at this popular Moroccan brasserie by the Rhône, but we strongly recommend you stick to wonderful Maghrebian…

  • Le Petit Paris

    Cannes

    Little Paris smacks of the French capital city with its quintessential Parisian brasserie decor. Like any brasserie worth its French fries, it serves food…

  • Gelateria Azzurro

    Nice

    Next door to the cathedral, this venerable Vieux Nice gelateria is beloved for its ice cream, yes – but even more so for its homemade waffle cones, made…

  • Au Platane

    The Luberon

    Pleasant, if plain, French food is what you can expect at this longstanding restaurant in the town centre: roast duck, thyme-infused lamb and a fish of…

  • Au Bord de l'Eau

    Marseille

    Perched right on the water's edge in the port of Madrague, south of Marseille, this little seafood place specialises in the day's catch à la plancha …

  • L'Auberge Espagnole

    The Luberon

    Simple tapas, cold beers and a nice location on a tree-shaded square – the 'Spanish Inn' makes a pleasant spot for a quick lunch or pre-dinner snacks.

  • Sporting Plage

    Nice

    Straddling a prime stretch of beachfront at the heart of the Promenade des Anglais, Sporting serves up unbeatable Mediterranean views along with pizza,…

  • Les Halles

    Avignon

    Over 40 food stalls showcase seasonal Provençal ingredients. Cooking demonstrations are held at 11am Saturday. Outside on place Pie, admire Patrick Blanc…

  • La Casertane

    Marseille

    A good lunch bet, this small Italian deli serves pastas, ciabattas, salads and antipasti, and sells top-class Italian goodies to take away. Good Italian…

  • La Mère Germaine

    Villefranche-sur-Mer

    In business since 1938, La Mère Germaine is an upmarket waterfront address for seafood, fish and more seafood, washed down with a splendid choice of wine.

  • Fenocchio

    Nice

    The second branch of Nice’s fine maître glacier, in business since 1966, stocks all the flavours.

  • Le Pain de l'Opéra

    Marseille

    Baking some of the best pastries near the Vieux Port, Le Pain de l'Opéra also has plenty of savoury options.

  • Halles Municipales

    Menton

    Menton’s covered food market near the seafront bursts with local colours, scents and flavours.

  • Georges exterior

    Georges

    Marseille

    The south-facing terrace of this relaxed 'corner bistro' is usually thronged in good weather. But the locals aren’t here for the sun so much as expertly…

  • Vegan Gorilla

    Nice

    Run by health-food aficionados Willy and Camille, Nice's pioneering vegan and gluten-free restaurant greets guests with a giant gorilla statue and a…

  • La Cantine

    Aix-en-Provence

    The peasant flavours of Corsica are given free rein at this backstreet bistro – from big platters of Corsican charcuterie to a wine list with some of the…

  • Malthazar

    Marseille

    The food is decent all-purpose French (entrecôte, foie gras, boeuf tartare, crème brulée, burgers etc) but what really appeals about this club-like…

  • Kiosque Jardin des Arènes

    Nice

    The lone eatery near the Musée Matisse is this humble parkside kiosk, serving panini, salads and Niçois specialities such as pan bagnat (Provençal tuna…

  • Le Safari

    Nice

    Of the many brasseries adjoining the cours Saleya market, Le Safari is among the few that native Niçois' regularly recommend. Pluses: food is served…

  • Comptoir du Sud

    Arles

    A great lunch option, with a counter brimming with picnicky treats – sandwiches filled with inventive ingredients such as Roquefort and cèpe crème …

  • Emilie’s

    Nice

    Cookies, coffee and cakes are the raison d’être at this calculatedly cute cafe (part of a larger franchise) on the edge of the old town. It’s got the feel…

  • Carré Llorca

    Nice

    The menu at this contemporary urban bistro is signed off by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Michel Llorca. Neutral hues add an understated elegance to the…

  • Le Comptoir du Calendal

    Arles

    Based on the ground floor of Le Calendal, this bright and breezy cafe does a nice line in lunchtime sandwiches and salads, plus offers a tempting choice…

  • Les Arcenaulx

    Marseille

    Part bookshop, part restaurant, this opulent former arms warehouse overlooks a vast public square and makes a sophisticated setting for a meal, or just…

  • Dolce Vita

    Villefranche-sur-Mer

    Among the generous line-up of restaurant terraces along the seafront, the 'Sweet Life' is a favourite for its hip, shabby-chic lounge-bar vibe and…

  • L'Estrambord

    Camargue

    Built by a bullfighter in 1907, and assuming its present form after the current owners took over in 1977, this friendly place is basically a roadside…

  • Le Baratin

    Alpes-de-Haute-Provence

    Downhill from the market square, this small cafe is a popular lunch spot, good for speedy classics like salade de chèvre chaud (melted goat’s cheese salad…

  • L’Estrade

    The Luberon

    Tiny and friendly, this village restaurant is a popular local’s tip for solid, fuss-free Provençal cooking. Everything’s cooked fresh on the day, so it’s…

  • Le Chantilly

    Toulon

    A proper brasserie through and through: beers on tap, tables on the street and a menu of filling French standards like duck breast and grilled steak. It’s…

  • La Tarte Tropézienne

    Aix-en-Provence

    A handy refuelling station when exploring Vieil Aix, this outlet of St-Tropez’s swish baker sells sugar-encrusted tarte Tropézienne, plus sandwiches and…

  • Moorea Plage

    Côte d'Azur

    Ideal for conversation and backgammon, this relatively laid-back club and restaurant is tops for steak, and experiments successfully with Asian flavours…

  • Café du Progrès

    The Luberon

    Ménerbes’ tobacconist-newsagent-bar is the hub for all the village gossip, and a good bet for lunchtime plats du jour (dishes of the day).

  • Fish Market

    Marseille

    You can still buy the fresh stuff here at the Vieux Port, among the vestiges of what would once have been a thriving quayside fish market.

  • Marché de la Joliette

    Marseille

    This lively market sells a good range of fresh produce and is the place for picnic supplies. On Monday there are also flowers.

  • Clérissy

    Gorges du Verdon

    A good lunch spot in the village, with crispy pizzas, filling crêpes and generous salads.

  • La Tropézienne

    Avignon

    St-Tropez’ famous cream-and-cake tarte tropézienne, plus other treats.

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