Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur

  • Le Rocher

    Antibes

    At weekends and in high season, reservations are essential at this good-value beach restaurant with waterside terrace overlooking Cap d'Antibes' legendary…

  • Bistrot Le 5

    The Luberon

    Lunch with a view? Mais oui – and what a view. On the village's edge, this popular bistro boasts a grandstand, tree-shaded terrace overlooking classic…

  • Chez Étienne

    Marseille

    Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade…

  • Fadoli et Fadola

    Arles

    Well-stuffed sandwiches – made to order, frotté à l'ail (rubbed with garlic) and dripping with silken AOC Vallée des Baux olive oil – lure the crowds to…

  • Bar à Manger du Coin Caché

    Avignon

    This place is pure charm. On cobbled-stone place des Chataignes (Chestnut Tree Square) it spills across to its ancient stone neighbour (Cloître St-Pierre)…

  • Le Rhul

    Marseille

    This long-standing classic in a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views has plenty of atmosphere, however kitschy. Although this is one of the most…

  • Elly’s

    Côte d'Azur

    Overseen by chef Franck Chabod, a veteran of several Michelin-starred establishments, this attractive restaurant feels a little out of place in St-Raphaël…

  • Le Potard

    Avignon

    Gourmet brioche-based burgers come in a multitude of guises, loaded with tempting goodies from smoked bacon and St-Nectaire cheese to caramelised onions,…

  • L'École des Filles

    Côte d'Azur

    As the name suggests, this is the village's former girls' school. What makes it so special is that it has retained the charm of an old village school: in…

  • La Grignotière

    Gorges du Verdon

    Hidden behind the soft-pink façade of Moustiers' Musée de la Faïence is this peaceful garden restaurant. Tables sit between olive trees and the colourful,…

  • Le Chalet du Pharo

    Marseille

    Only Marseillais and the cognoscenti are privy to this little chalet with a very big view, secreted in the Jardin du Pharo. Its hillside terrace, shaded…

  • Paloma Beach

    Côte d'Azur

    You couldn't ask for a more idyllic spot for dinner and a drink than this beachside resto-bar, in business since 1948. The menu revolves around grilled…

  • Aux Deux Anges

    Alpes-de-Haute-Provence

    Beside a fountain in Forcalquier's old town, this homespun place is as traditional as it gets. All the dishes are made to timeworn recipes comme à la…

  • Le Barrio

    Avignon

    In the town's studenty quarter near elegant place des Carmes, this no-fuss hang-out is ideal for solid, unpretentious grub like stir-fries, crusted cod,…

  • Longchamp Palace

    Marseille

    A classic neighbourhood bar and bistro, the Longchamp Palace teems with convivial locals, especially after work. Stained glass windows that might have…

  • Schilling

    Marseille

    Scotch and spanking-fresh seafood come together in this outpost of the Auld Alliance (the long-standing friendship between Scotland and France, cemented…

  • Le Comptoir du Marché

    Nice

    With its vintage kitchen decor and great-value prices, the Comptoir does predictably well. There are five or six daily mains, scribbled on a chalkboard…

  • Au Brin de Thym

    Arles

    A favourite recommendation for bistro dining, Au Brin de Thym is chilled in vibe and creative in execution. The menu is dictated by seasons and the best…

  • La Grignotière

    Villefranche-sur-Mer

    For a cheap and cheerful fill, there is no finer address along the coast than La Grignotière, known far and wide for its generous portions of grilled fish…

  • Bar des 13 Coins

    Marseille

    Night and day, this corner bar is a classic Le Panier hang-out whether you’re old, young, hip or in need of a hip replacement. It’s on a quiet backstreet…

  • Aux Bons Enfants

    Cannes

    A people’s-choice place since 1935, this informal restaurant cooks up regional dishes, such as aïoli garni (garlic and saffron mayonnaise served with fish…

  • La Playa

    Camargue

    East of Stes-Maries, towards the Digue à la Mer on sandy Plage Est, is La Playa, the chic choice, with a particularly vibrant apéro and after-dark scene…

  • Nautic Bar

    Les Calanques

    The one restaurant in the tiny, pretty calanque of Morgiou is the delightful Nautic Bar. With terraces overlooking the port, it is a dreamy spot for…

  • Le Chantecler

    Nice

    Housed in a sumptuous pink Regency dining room, the two-starred Michelin restaurant at the Hôtel Negresco, run by locally trained chef Jean-Denis…

  • Au Petit Libanais

    Nice

    This family-run Lebanese place offers a delicious break from Nice's ubiquitous French and Italian fare. Platters of marinated and grilled meat (kafta,…

  • Café de Turin

    Nice

    For a lavish seafood platter loaded with oysters, lobster, crab, cockles and more, Café de Turin is a longstanding Niçois tradition. You can also buy…

  • La Pesquière

    St-Tropez

    It's no surprise this old-fashioned place survives in restless, modish St Tropez: since 1962 the one family has made an art of buying the day's freshest…

  • Couleurs Jardin

    Côte d'Azur

    Eclectic and hip, this imaginative beachside space is the place to dine and/or drink. Loll on cushioned seating beneath the trees or pick a table on the…

  • L’Aromate Provençale

    Toulon

    Traditional Provençal flavours get a modern twist at this little side-of-the-street brasserie, run by young entrepreneurs Pierre Andreini and Martial…

  • Le Mas de Peint Restaurant

    Camargue

    Le Mas de Peint's gourmet restaurant, masterminded by highly credentialled chef Grégory Brousse, offers seasonal menus and Camarguais dishes in a choice…

  • New York, New York

    Cannes

    Very trendy and very popular, this Manhattan-style diner with its vast front terrace is a favourite hang-out for Cannes' young and beautiful crowd, who…

  • Le Vintage

    Avignon

    Deep in the medieval quarter, this welcoming bistro is a fun place to dine. Zinc tables, well-worn furniture and a busy, noisy kitchen out back conjure up…

  • Le Zinc

    Antibes

    Head uphill from the market and you shouldn't miss this titchy little bistro-cum-wine-bar – the tiny street terrace is usually full of diners, especially…

  • L'Ubu

    Avignon

    This place is so hip it hurts, from its in-your-face street-art murals to its junk-shop decor and on-trend slogans. The menu changes regularly, so there's…

  • La Table d'Etsuko

    Nice

    Market-fresh cuisine takes on new meaning at this lovely table d'hôte (home kitchen serving meals). Three times a week, Japanese chef Etsuko invites up to…

  • Market

    The Luberon

    Bonnieux’ huge Friday-morning market is (along with Apt’s) one of the biggest and best in the Luberon. It sprawls over several streets in the village…

  • Pearl Beach

    St-Tropez

    A good bet for beachside dining, this pan-European bistro-bar is on the way out of town. With its wood deck and swaying palms, it’s perfect for a…

  • Arlequin Gelati

    Nice

    A five-minute walk from Nice Ville train station brings you to this fab ice-cream shop founded by Milanese gelato master Roberto. Grab a scoop of…

  • La Treille Muscate

    Gorges du Verdon

    The top place to eat in the village proper: classic Provençal cooking served with panache, either in the stone-walled dining room or on the terrace with…

  • Numéro 75

    Avignon

    The chic dining room, in the former mansion of absinthe inventor Jules Pernod, is a fitting backdrop to the stylised Mediterranean cooking. Menus change…

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