Camargue
This house restaurant is an iconic address adored by Arlésians. Feast on grilled bull chops, mullet eggs and anchoïade (a powerful Provençal garlic and…
Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur
The Luberon
Another one of the Luberon's long-standing tables, overseen by bubbly Elisabeth Bourgeois, it's heavy on Provençal flavours: lots of stuffed aubergines,…
Marseille
There are plenty of ice-cream shops around Marseille, but there’s only one that sells black ice cream (coloured by vanilla pods, which lend a unique,…
Cannes
Fine dining with a price to match, run by experienced chef Jean-Paul Battaglia. The setting is formal – beige chairs and banquette seats, tasteful art on…
St-Tropez
With a plum position near the Viex Port and such an obvious name, you'd be forgiven for thinking this bistro was nothing but a tourist trap, but the food…
Arles
Thirty-eight flavours of artisanal ice cream and sorbet are the mainstays of this glacier on busy place du Forum. Buy a cone to take away or treat…
Marseille
Having previously run restaurants in Antibes and Fort Lauderdale, husband-and-wife team Olivier and Sylvie opened this colourful bistro off cours Julien…
Arles
Alexandre's little joint (the 'Open Box') has become a firm Arlésian favourite for chilled evening eats in the courtyard of the Hôtel du Cloître. It…
Toulon
This is the restaurant that shows Toulon is slowly but surely shaking its down-at-heel image. With crisp white tablecloths, sparkling glasses and…
Côte d'Azur
The pick of Pampelonne's beach restaurants, Jumeaux serves beautiful seafood (including fabulous whole fish, ideal to share) and sun-busting salads on its…
Èze
The famous boutique hotel has a suitably swish restaurant, where you can dine on first-class Michelin-style food with dazzling sea views. It’s…
Marseille
This smart boulangerie and patisserie with a salon du thé (tearoom) attached produces some of Marseille's best pastries.
Marseille
Doing double duty as a bar à vin (wine bar) and Argentinian restaurant, L'Entre Pots is a great place to snack on plump empanadas, juicy entrecôte and…
Marseille
Decorated with plenty of wood and splashes of colour, the 'neo-bistro' Chez Vallès exemplifies the rise of newly hip neighbourhood Vauban. Fresh…
Marseille
Nestled within a welcoming Egyptian cultural centre, this cheery restaurant serves dishes of thick Egyptian flatbread, chunky hummus, creamy aubergine…
Marseille
This award-winning artisan chocolatier uses olive oil to achieve an otherworldly creaminess in its products. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself…
Menton
This one-of-a-kind boulangerie showcases breads from the Côte d’Azur, inland Provence and other favourite spots from baker-owner Kevin Le Meur's world…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
For just-like-mama-made-it French cuisine, it’s worth the 5km drive from Forcalquier to this unapologetically old-school bistro in Niozelles. You’ll need…
Nice
There’s no shortage of ice-cream sellers in the old town, but this maître glacier (master ice-cream maker) has been king of the scoops since 1966. The…
Nice
Simple, solid Niçois cuisine – stockfish, calf tripe à la Niçoise with panisse (chunky, pan-fried sticks of chickpea batter) and the like – by former…
Côte d'Azur
In the hamlet of Courmes, at the foot of mountains 10km north of Le Pont du Loup, this flowery inn is gorgeous for a long, lazy lunch alfresco. New owners…
The Luberon
You won’t get a more honest Provençal lunch than at Maurice Leporati’s roadside inn, where the feast always starts with wicker trays filled with hors d…
Côte d'Azur
For the full wham-bam gastronomic show, reserve a table at Bruno Cirino's double-Michelin-starred restaurant. The Italianate chef works with local…
The Luberon
What fun this place is: an offbeat French restaurant that's stocked to the gunwales with the owners' bric-a-brac finds, from vintage movie posters,…
Nice
Fromage is what fuels the convivial mood at this candlelit, brick- and stone-vaulted cellar bistro. The menu changes with the seasons but always revolves…
Nice
In the heart of the cours Selaya market, this no-frills stand draws crowds every morning for its hot-from-the-oven socca (chickpea-flour pancake; brought…
Cassis
Run by brothers Laurent and Eric, this fish shop-cum-seafood restaurant has been a fixture on the Cassis waterfront for decades, and it shows no sign of…
Côte d'Azur
Mougins’ most luxurious five-star hotel, spa and restaurant has it all. Rooms are heavenly, the spa is bliss, and in the hotel restaurant (open to…
La Boulangerie par Jean-Luc Pelé
Cannes
This swanky bakery by Cannois chocolatier and pâtissier Jean-Luc Pelé casts a whole new spin on eating cheaply in Cannes. Creative salads, sandwiches,…
Nice
Everyone loves this intimate backstreet hideaway, named for its trademark dessert, a sinfully tasty chocolate fondant baked in a p'tite cocotte (mini…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
This Provençal restaurant at the Ecomusée l’Olivier near Volx is only open for lunch, but it's well worth a detour (and if you're visiting the museum it's…
The Luberon
Run by top chef Thomas Gallardo, the contemporary feel of this renowned 'semi-gastronomic' restaurant belies its country setting. Funky globe bulbs,…
Antibes
After years polishing his skills in double- and triple-starred Michelin restaurants, young chef Lucas Marini recently launched his own gastronomic venture…
Aix-en-Provence
Locals pack into the tiny vaulted dining room of this hard-to-find place for the superb-value lunch menus. All the bistro boxes are ticked: red-and-white…
Côte d'Azur
With tables beneath a leafy tree on a fountain-clad square behind the cathedral, this casual restaurant gets top billing among locals. Families with kids…
Cassis
With its open-sided fireplace and pretty, art-filled dining room, this small restaurant makes a good refuge from the harbour-side hustle. It also provides…
The Luberon
Those short of time or money in Gordes should follow the locals downhill along rue Baptistin Picca to this pocket-sized boulangerie (bakery), which has…
Côte d'Azur
With gorgeous views across to St-Paul, a lantern-lit fairy garden, and a crackling fireplace on chilly nights, this long-standing favourite is the very…
Nice
At this popular Vieux Nice newcomer, a New Zealander and a naturopath whip up an awesome array of veggie, raw and vegan treats. Weekly specials are…
Nice
Don’t expect service with a smile at this chaotic, no-frills corner restaurant – but do expect a slice of socca (chickpea-flour pancake) or a plate of…
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