Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur

  • Café Populaire

    Marseille

    Vintage furniture, latticed blinds, old books and antique soft drink bottles lend a retro air to this style-conscious, 1950s-styled jazz comptoir (counter…

  • Ginette et Marcel

    Avignon

    Set on one of Avignon's most happening plane-tree-shaded squares, this vintage cafe styled like a 1950s grocery is a charming spot to hang out and people…

  • Hôtel Particulier des Jasmins

    Côte d'Azur

    With panoramic views over the valley, Bruce and Julien's brand-new restaurant – its façade cleverly stencilled to give the appearance of a much older…

  • Le Réfectoire

    Arles

    You won't find a much better lunch venue than this convivial canteen within the emergent cultural centre Fondation Luma. The food is light and colourful,…

  • Le Roof

    Cannes

    Perched on the Five Seas Hotel's 5th floor, this bistro with sublime panoramic views has recently given its menu a complete makeover. Highlights include…

  • La Ramade

    St-Tropez

    A lovely slice of old-fashioned Provençal hospitality, this terraced (or fire-warmed, on chilly days) bistro does great French service: few frills, great…

  • La Onda

    Côte d'Azur

    Bright artwork covers the walls and the scent of garlic fills the air at this exuberant, Spanish-run tapas bar on one of Vence's prettiest squares…

  • Au Caprice des Deux

    St-Tropez

    This traditional maison de village (old stone terraced house) with coffee-coloured wooden shutters is a fancy-night-out favourite with locals, who know…

  • Le Petit Fouet

    Côte d'Azur

    This little Mougins restaurant serves everything from breakfasts to apéritif platters of cheese, charcuterie and escargots, to hearty lunches of cassoulet…

  • Socca d'Or

    Nice

    Locals swear by the authentic Niçois specialities served at this low-key neighbourhood eatery: pan bagnat (southern France's iconic tuna sandwich) on…

  • Côté Jardin

    Cannes

    Craving a break from Cannes' glitz and grandiosity? This down-to-earth bistro on a residential backstreet is the perfect antidote. Enjoy superb-value…

  • Voyageur Nissart

    Nice

    There's a sense of rote predictability about this checked tablecloth bistro that's been cranking out Niçois favourites for the past several decades. The…

  • La Gauloise

    Nice

    With red and black booths and lashings of exposed brick, this cheerful place in the heart of the Libération neighbourhood serves up solid brasserie food…

  • Le Potager

    The Luberon

    Located at the lovely Bastide du Jas B&B, this refined restaurant has proved popular both with the locals and the foodie guides (it recently received a…

  • Le Canon

    Nice

    Elmahdi Mobarik and Sébastien Perinetti take locally sourced cuisine to the next level at this cosy neighbourhood bistro. Every farmer is listed by name…

  • La Casita

    Camargue

    The charismatic couple who run this unpretentious address, with cartwheels for tables, cook up the catch of the day à la plancha (grilled) for eight…

  • Le Fournil

    The Luberon

    In the middle of town next to the fountain, ‘The Oven’ is another of Bonnieux’ most consistent tables. There’s a choice of settings: the swish interior …

  • Le Môlé Passédat

    Marseille

    On the top floor of Marseille’s flagship museum, MuCEM, Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat cooks up exquisite French fare alongside big blue views of…

  • Calypso – Lou Santen

    Camargue

    A seasonal regular, this beach restaurant shaded by a reed pergola provides the perfect lookout to the Plage Ouest and the Mediterranean beyond. Lounge at…

  • La Buvette de Jean-Marc

    Côte d'Azur

    This humble buvette (snack bar) has a noble history. Proprietor Jean-Marc is the son of local legend Billy Allari, who ran his own popular buvette on this…

  • Les Deux Frères

    Côte d'Azur

    This gourmet hotel-restaurant with panoramic terrace is super stylish. Eight chic boutique rooms (doubles €75 to €110) – two with sea view – slumber up…

  • Le J

    Côte d'Azur

    Run by a husband-and-wife team with years of international restaurant experience, this sweet little bistro is all about Mediterranean classics made with…

  • Chez Jeannot

    Marseille

    Occupying a magical spot on the little harbour of Vallon des Auffes, this old favourite has a split-level layout and picture windows overlooking the boats…

  • Le 10

    Côte d'Azur

    This convivial bistro in a cosy old two-storey house serves a single fixed menu each evening. It's a bit like being invited to a friend's house for dinner…

  • La Casa di Giorgio

    Nice

    Don't let Giorgio's informal mom-and-pop vibe fool you! Snagging a seat at one of its red-and-white checked tables requires serious advance planning. With…

  • Maison Gusto

    Nice

    At this serious mozzarella-lover's bar, tasting platters of burrata, stracciatella, mozzarella di bufala, charcuterie and salad can keep you busy all…

  • Les Buffets du Vieux Port

    Marseille

    This is no ordinary all-you-can-eat: a sleek modern dining room spreads around a buffet overflowing with Italian, Spanish and (above all) Provençal…

  • Noisette Café et Cuisine

    Cannes

    There's not a soupçon of pretension about this cosy little Italian tucked away between La Croisette and rue d'Antibes. With its sea-blue furniture and…

  • Au Vieux Gassin

    Côte d'Azur

    When the sun's out and you have nowhere pressing to be, there can be few sweeter terraces to enjoy a prolonged Provençal meal than Au Vieux Gassin's. With…

  • Fou de Fafa

    Avignon

    A typical French bistro, Fou de Fafa's strength lies in simplicity – fresh ingredients, bright flavours, convivial surroundings (and a notably early…

  • Au Jardin des Carmes

    Avignon

    There's one standout reason to lunch at this homey restaurant, and that's the delightful courtyard garden, shaded by sails, tall bamboo and climbing…

  • Auberge des Maures

    St-Tropez

    The town’s oldest restaurant remains the locals’ choice for always-good, copious portions of earthy Provençal cooking, like daube (braised-beef stew),…

  • Le G’Envie

    St-Tropez

    Run by ebullient owners Alain and Nuno, this pint-sized restaurant feels like it's peaking right now: there's so much skill and enthusiasm expended on…

  • La Bidule

    Aix-en-Provence

    Places come and go around the Forum des Cardeurs, but ‘The Thingy’ is an enduring, cheap and cheerful favourite, with flowery PVC tablecloths, a vast…

  • La Grange

    Camargue

    If you've developed a desire to get closer to the Camargue's bulls by eating them, then head to the Grange, an ode to Camargue's gardians, with bull…

  • Le Galoubet

    Arles

    Eighteenth-century stone walls, a wooden bar, a fireplace, friendly staff and French/Provençal food that's not afraid to play with Asian ingredients like…

  • La Cantinetta

    Marseille

    This classy Italian trattoria on the buzzy cours Julien is perennially popular. All the pasta here is homemade, and ingredients are sourced from Italy…

  • Chez Camille

    Côte d'Azur

    Deep terracotta walls hide this blue-and-white-tiled fishing cottage, dating from 1913. Now onto its fourth generation, the beachside restaurant is famous…

  • E.A.T.

    Avignon

    Weird name; great food. This back-alley bistro near place Crillon is a strong local's tip. It's very French, but borrows flavours and spices freely:…

  • La Tarte Tropézienne

    St-Tropez

    This smart, bustling cafe-bakery is the creator of St Tropez' eponymous sugar-crusted, orange-perfumed cake, but also does decent breads and light meals…

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