Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy

  • Pasticceria Romolo

    Salerno

    This sprawling pasticceria (pastry shop) across from the station dates from 1966 and the decor has changed little since. The cakes are legendary, and…

  • Pizzaló

    Bay of Naples

    Facing Pozzuoli's popular esplanade, upbeat restaurant-pizzeria Pizzaló serves decent pizzas, as well as Neapolitan dishes with unexpected twists;…

  • Osteria del Campanile

    Messina

    With its prime location – just behind the duomo – this cosy, retro hostelry is a handy spot for classic Sicilian homecooking. The menu features all the…

  • Tentazioni di Gusto

    Trapani

    ‘Tentazioni’ (temptation) is the buzzword at Gusto, a contemporary-styled space with street lounge made for romantic aperitivo-quaffing and a creative…

  • Trattoria degli Ulivi

    Salerno & the Cilento

    After your marathon walk through the endless corridors of the Certoza di San Lorenzo, head to this uncomplicated restaurant, a short 50m stumble from the…

  • A Rusticana

    Ragusa

    Fans of the Inspector Montalbano TV series will want to eat here, as it's where scenes set in the fictional Trattoria San Calogero were filmed. In reality…

  • La Gazza Ladra

    Syracuse

    Great food served in welcoming surroundings at honest prices: the recipe for success sounds simple but few manage it as well as this friendly, pocket…

  • Ristorante Nascondiglio dell'Amore

    Ischia

    Cosy and friendly hilltop restaurant with sea and castle vistas, serving an acclaimed coniglio al'Ischitana (rabbit cooked in wine and herbs). It also…

  • Sant’Andrea

    Salerno

    There’s an earthy southern Italian flavour at this classic old-town trattoria with its terrace surrounded by historic houses decorated with last night's…

  • Comis Ice Cafè

    Catania

    Siblings Santino and Sergio make the finest granita in town, known for its especially smooth, creamy consistency. Their house-made brioche is wonderfully…

  • Osteria Lo Bianco

    Palermo

    Wedged between Piazza Politeama and the port, homey Lo Bianco cranks out delicious Palermitan classics at very digestible prices. The caponata is good…

  • L’Arco dei Cappuccini

    Taormina

    If you demand your seafood ridiculously fresh, reserve a table at this superlative local favourite. The crudo antipasto makes for a showstopping prologue,…

  • Pasticceria Alba

    Palermo

    Regulars insist that Palermo's best coffee is served at this neighbourhood hangout. They're equally evangelical about Alba's arancine (rice balls), whose…

  • Le Angeliche

    Palermo

    An oasis of potted plants and pastel hues, Le Angeliche is run by four women passionate about honouring and refreshing Sicily's rich, sometime obscure…

  • Di Matteo

    Naples

    Old-school, no-frills pizzeria Di Matteo is fronted by a popular streetfront stall that sells some of the city's best fried snacks, from pizza fritta …

  • Muu Muuzzarella Lounge

    Naples

    Pimped with milking-bucket lights and cow-hide patterned cushions, playful, contemporary Muu is all about super-fresh Campanian mozzarella, from cheese…

  • Da Luisa

    Naples

    Opposite the Museo di Capodimonte, neighbourly Da Luisa offers a short menu of uncomplicated, classic dishes. Pique the appetite with prosciutto and…

  • Don Salvatore

    Naples

    The key to happiness? Balmy nights, sea breezes and impeccable seafood. You're guaranteed at least the last two at this stylish veteran, with its dolce…

  • enoteca dai tosi

    Matera

    Easily Matera's most spectacular wine bar and restaurant, enoteca dai tosi's subterranean space enlivened with shimmering green glass is a top place to…

  • Trattoria San Ferdinando

    Naples

    Hung with theatre posters, cosy, family-run San Ferdinando pulls in theatre crowds and the odd intellectual. For a Neapolitan taste trip, ask for a…

  • Assud

    Marsala

    Mackerel and pistachio caponata, ravioli with beetroot and artichokes, or swordfish patties studded with squid chunks are among the classics with an…

  • Mo' Avast

    Palermo

    When your papà is Puglian and your mamá Greek, it makes sense to open a restaurant dedicated to Puglian-Greek cuisine. That's exactly what siblings…

  • Lu Carmè

    Tyrrhenian Coast

    Just below Petralia Soprana's main square, this family-run venture may look rather sterile at first glance, but step inside to discover well-prepared,…

  • A Putia delle Cose Buone

    Syracuse

    From the whimsical lanterns to the benches draped in colourful pillows, this little bolthole feels welcoming from the word go. Then there's the food:…

  • Sicily

    Syracuse

    Experimenting with pizzas is something you do at your peril in culinary-conservative Sicily. But that's exactly what is done, and done well, at this…

  • Chalet Ciro Mergellina

    Naples

    This retro seafront chalet sells everything from coffee and pastries to crêpes, but you head here for the graffe (doughnuts) and the gelato. Indeed, find…

  • Mandralisca 16 Bistrot

    Cefalù

    Picturesque setting combines with scrumptious Sicilian cuisine at this relative newcomer with sidewalk seating in an alley gazing towards the Duomo's bell…

  • Paccamora Bio Bar

    Enna

    This next-gen cafe breathes fresh thinking into Enna's main square. The focus is on the fresh, wholesome and local, from great organic coffee (non-dairy…

  • Ristorante il Saraceno d’Oro

    Positano

    There is something so typically Italian about the set-up of this restaurant, where waiters have to dash to and fro across the road with their dishes. But…

  • Papisca

    Lipari

    On the waterfront in Canneto, this bar-cafe is beloved among locals for its reasonably priced snacks (arancini, frittatas, pasta al forno, breaded…

  • Bioesserì

    Palermo

    Organic fare with flair awaits at this stylish Milanese import. Part cafe, part upmarket grocery store, its virtuous bites tap all bases, including vegan…

  • Fratelli La Bufala

    Messina

    Contemporary, light-filled and bustling, this successful Naples chain churns out bubbling, doughy, Neapolitan-style pizzas to famished suits, couples and…

  • Friggitoria Vomero

    Naples

    Especially popular with euro-conscious students, this spartan, veteran snack bar is well known for its fritture. Crunch away on tempura-style aubergines…

  • U Maccicuni wine & food

    Mediterranean Coast

    There's nothing surprising about the traditional Sicilian menu, but a focus on stellar service makes U Maccicuni the standout restaurant on Favara's main…

  • Irrera 1910

    Messina

    Messina is renowned for its granita, and you'll devour one of the very best at this polished cafe-pasticceria. To order like a local, ask for a mezza con…

  • Ristorante da Ciccio

    Ischia

    In the seafood game since 1963 and currently overseen by charming host Carlo, Ristorante da Ciccio (Italian street-slang for 'dude' or 'chubby') is an…

  • Le Arcate

    Capri

    This is the restaurant that the locals recommend – and frequent. An unpretentious place with hanging baskets of ivy, sunny yellow tablecloths and well…

  • La Pansa

    Amalfi

    A marbled and mirrored fifth-generation cafe on Piazza del Duomo where black-bow-tied waiters serve minimalist Italian breakfasts: freshly made cornetti …

  • La Piazzetta

    Taormina

    Tucked into the corner of picturesque Piazza Paladini, seafood-focused La Piazzetta is an agreeable place to enjoy homestyle Sicilian cooking. Staples…

  • Filippino

    Lipari

    Going strong for over a century, Filippino is a mainstay of Lipari's culinary scene, widely considered the island's finest restaurant. Housed in a glass…

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