Salerno
This sprawling pasticceria (pastry shop) across from the station dates from 1966 and the decor has changed little since. The cakes are legendary, and…
Salerno
This sprawling pasticceria (pastry shop) across from the station dates from 1966 and the decor has changed little since. The cakes are legendary, and…
Bay of Naples
Facing Pozzuoli's popular esplanade, upbeat restaurant-pizzeria Pizzaló serves decent pizzas, as well as Neapolitan dishes with unexpected twists;…
Messina
With its prime location – just behind the duomo – this cosy, retro hostelry is a handy spot for classic Sicilian homecooking. The menu features all the…
Trapani
‘Tentazioni’ (temptation) is the buzzword at Gusto, a contemporary-styled space with street lounge made for romantic aperitivo-quaffing and a creative…
Salerno & the Cilento
After your marathon walk through the endless corridors of the Certoza di San Lorenzo, head to this uncomplicated restaurant, a short 50m stumble from the…
Ragusa
Fans of the Inspector Montalbano TV series will want to eat here, as it's where scenes set in the fictional Trattoria San Calogero were filmed. In reality…
Syracuse
Great food served in welcoming surroundings at honest prices: the recipe for success sounds simple but few manage it as well as this friendly, pocket…
Ristorante Nascondiglio dell'Amore
Ischia
Cosy and friendly hilltop restaurant with sea and castle vistas, serving an acclaimed coniglio al'Ischitana (rabbit cooked in wine and herbs). It also…
Salerno
There’s an earthy southern Italian flavour at this classic old-town trattoria with its terrace surrounded by historic houses decorated with last night's…
Catania
Siblings Santino and Sergio make the finest granita in town, known for its especially smooth, creamy consistency. Their house-made brioche is wonderfully…
Palermo
Wedged between Piazza Politeama and the port, homey Lo Bianco cranks out delicious Palermitan classics at very digestible prices. The caponata is good…
Taormina
If you demand your seafood ridiculously fresh, reserve a table at this superlative local favourite. The crudo antipasto makes for a showstopping prologue,…
Palermo
Regulars insist that Palermo's best coffee is served at this neighbourhood hangout. They're equally evangelical about Alba's arancine (rice balls), whose…
Palermo
An oasis of potted plants and pastel hues, Le Angeliche is run by four women passionate about honouring and refreshing Sicily's rich, sometime obscure…
Naples
Old-school, no-frills pizzeria Di Matteo is fronted by a popular streetfront stall that sells some of the city's best fried snacks, from pizza fritta …
Naples
Pimped with milking-bucket lights and cow-hide patterned cushions, playful, contemporary Muu is all about super-fresh Campanian mozzarella, from cheese…
Naples
Opposite the Museo di Capodimonte, neighbourly Da Luisa offers a short menu of uncomplicated, classic dishes. Pique the appetite with prosciutto and…
Naples
The key to happiness? Balmy nights, sea breezes and impeccable seafood. You're guaranteed at least the last two at this stylish veteran, with its dolce…
Matera
Easily Matera's most spectacular wine bar and restaurant, enoteca dai tosi's subterranean space enlivened with shimmering green glass is a top place to…
Naples
Hung with theatre posters, cosy, family-run San Ferdinando pulls in theatre crowds and the odd intellectual. For a Neapolitan taste trip, ask for a…
Marsala
Mackerel and pistachio caponata, ravioli with beetroot and artichokes, or swordfish patties studded with squid chunks are among the classics with an…
Palermo
When your papà is Puglian and your mamá Greek, it makes sense to open a restaurant dedicated to Puglian-Greek cuisine. That's exactly what siblings…
Tyrrhenian Coast
Just below Petralia Soprana's main square, this family-run venture may look rather sterile at first glance, but step inside to discover well-prepared,…
Syracuse
From the whimsical lanterns to the benches draped in colourful pillows, this little bolthole feels welcoming from the word go. Then there's the food:…
Syracuse
Experimenting with pizzas is something you do at your peril in culinary-conservative Sicily. But that's exactly what is done, and done well, at this…
Naples
This retro seafront chalet sells everything from coffee and pastries to crêpes, but you head here for the graffe (doughnuts) and the gelato. Indeed, find…
Cefalù
Picturesque setting combines with scrumptious Sicilian cuisine at this relative newcomer with sidewalk seating in an alley gazing towards the Duomo's bell…
Enna
This next-gen cafe breathes fresh thinking into Enna's main square. The focus is on the fresh, wholesome and local, from great organic coffee (non-dairy…
Positano
There is something so typically Italian about the set-up of this restaurant, where waiters have to dash to and fro across the road with their dishes. But…
Lipari
On the waterfront in Canneto, this bar-cafe is beloved among locals for its reasonably priced snacks (arancini, frittatas, pasta al forno, breaded…
Palermo
Organic fare with flair awaits at this stylish Milanese import. Part cafe, part upmarket grocery store, its virtuous bites tap all bases, including vegan…
Messina
Contemporary, light-filled and bustling, this successful Naples chain churns out bubbling, doughy, Neapolitan-style pizzas to famished suits, couples and…
Naples
Especially popular with euro-conscious students, this spartan, veteran snack bar is well known for its fritture. Crunch away on tempura-style aubergines…
Mediterranean Coast
There's nothing surprising about the traditional Sicilian menu, but a focus on stellar service makes U Maccicuni the standout restaurant on Favara's main…
Messina
Messina is renowned for its granita, and you'll devour one of the very best at this polished cafe-pasticceria. To order like a local, ask for a mezza con…
Ischia
In the seafood game since 1963 and currently overseen by charming host Carlo, Ristorante da Ciccio (Italian street-slang for 'dude' or 'chubby') is an…
Capri
This is the restaurant that the locals recommend – and frequent. An unpretentious place with hanging baskets of ivy, sunny yellow tablecloths and well…
Amalfi
A marbled and mirrored fifth-generation cafe on Piazza del Duomo where black-bow-tied waiters serve minimalist Italian breakfasts: freshly made cornetti …
Taormina
Tucked into the corner of picturesque Piazza Paladini, seafood-focused La Piazzetta is an agreeable place to enjoy homestyle Sicilian cooking. Staples…
Lipari
Going strong for over a century, Filippino is a mainstay of Lipari's culinary scene, widely considered the island's finest restaurant. Housed in a glass…
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