Matera
Stone is where you go to find young company or late-night grub (or both). Cavernous (like everywhere in Matera), its brightly lit interior has been given…
Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy
Central Sicily
It's all about the street food at this unassuming neighbourhood bar, complete with pavement patio. Scan the counter for cheap, filling bites such as pizza…
Capri
Tucked away in a corner, this place has a traditional trattoria atmosphere, with small rooms, decorative tiles and walls lined with bottles. Vegetarians…
Naples
Catholic kitsch, old photographs and a bucket of hot coals under the table to keep your tootsies toasty? No, you're not at nonna's house, just at one of…
Sorrento
With flower-topped tables and a film-like setting on an intimate side street, Da Gigino sets a charming scene for competent, homestyle feasting. Although…
Central Sicily
Exposed stone walls, low wooden ceiling, wine racks and a wood-fired pizza oven set a snug vibe at this local favourite. Admittedly, the pasta dishes are…
Ischia
Dating back decades, this restaurant has a lovely terrace decorated with copper pans, ceramic mugs and strings of garlic and chillies. Locals come for…
Taormina
Linen tables, gracious service and a romantic terrace overlooking the cathedral make Al Duomo the consummate romantic go-to. Dishes focus on Sicilian…
Syracuse
Any restaurant that is full on a Monday night in February is doing something right. Old-timer waiters weave their way through snug, art-slung dining rooms…
Bari
This long-established Barese osteria (casual tavern) features no menu, just a chalkboard displaying what's cooking that day. It's all salt-of-the-earth…
Taormina
While it won't blow your culinary socks off, homely Tiramisù remains a local institution for its reliable standbys. Tuck into wood-fired pizzas, fragrant…
Cilento Coast
Run by the Egidio family, this pasticceria (pastry shop) has a cake display backed by a large bakery where breads including integrale (whole-wheat) arrive…
Cosenza
There's no sea in Cosenza, yet the seafood is spot on at this diminutive family restaurant just off the city's main pedestrian street. With Sicily so…
Cilento Coast
An upper-crust pizza place on a pretty piazza with magnificent rubber trees and wisteria-draped walls. Sit outside or eat on the go. The pizzas include…
Matera
Proudly proclaiming itself to be the first of its kind in Sasso Barisano, this informal restaurant set in arched whitewashed rooms has been trading since…
Salerno & the Cilento
Easy to find on the main road through town, this bright, spacious restaurant with exposed stone walls has a small front terrace flanked by scarlet…
Palermo
Tables line the footpath and colourful children's paintings beam down from bright-red walls at this bustling family-run trattoria, in business since 1944…
Vieste
Tucked away in a picturesque narrow alley in the heart of the old town, this welcoming osteria has a cosy cave-like interior and outdoor seating under a…
Aeolian Islands
Numbering among Alicudi's few year-round residents are this local fisherman and his wife, who can arrange simple but tasty home-cooked meals any time of…
Syracuse
Bella Vita combines culinary traditions and modern polish, translating into thoughtfully presented dishes like ravioli stuffed with tuna and olives,…
Syracuse
With its cosy front porch opposite Ortygia's waterfront, this is a handy place for aperitivi after a dip in the sea. It also serves food, whipping up a…
Bari
With domed ceilings, archways and medieval-style artwork on the walls, this restaurant oozes atmosphere, and a quiet (justified) confidence in its classic…
Catania
It may not be the best pizzeria in town, but Locanda Cerami lures with its fabulous setting – in the warmer months, tables spread directly below the steps…
Naples
A labourers lunch is the most affordable way to try the best Neapolitan grub. Places such as this cavernous spot are only open at lunchtime and…
Noto
Up in Noto Alta, this dimly lit, Slow Food–acclaimed restaurant with an extensive wine list is widely regarded as Noto's best. While much of the menu is…
Lecce
A warmly inviting restaurant, this good-value trattoria is known for regional classics. As is proper to Puglia's 'cuisine of the poor', it's often the…
The Amalfi Coast
Modest trattoria with spectacular views over the coast, located just past the finishing post on the Sentiero degli Dei. The menu is short and traditional,…
Amalfi
The obvious choice just off Piazza del Duomo, this cavernous place attracts a dedicated crowd ranging from off-the-yacht Neapolitans to coachloads of…
Taormina
Forget the staid, pricey restaurant upstairs; Granduca's charm lies entirely in its vast, lower-level outdoor terrace overlooking the sea – pizza here on…
Palermo
Chintzy Touring is known for its arancine, great fist-sized rice balls stuffed with ragù, spinach or butter, and fried to a perfect golden orange. While…
Ragusa
This cosy, popular Sicilian-Slovak–run eatery near the Giardino Ibleo serves up hearty, home-style dishes. Slovak-inspired offerings such as goulash and…
Naples
Hidden off the chaotic Pignasecca market, this discreet but delicious tavola calda ('hot table') is run by head chef Enzo, who has been feeding hordes of…
Salerno
The surrounding Via Roma area may be one of the city’s trendiest, but there’s nothing remotely flash about the seafood served up in this old stalwart…
Cilento Coast
Part of the Albergo Santa Caterina, this L-shaped bar serves the best ice cream in town with semi freddi (semi cold) and yoghurt-based ices, as well as…
Ischia
This friendly place is just across the road from the beach and serves excellent dishes to locals and wised-up tourists; seafood is the speciality. Sit on…
Palermo
Marble floors, wooden panels and dapper waiters channel old-school Palermo at this 1860 veteran. If the weather is on your side, watch the world go by…
Matera
'The Mole' has burrowed itself comfortably inside one of Sasso Barisano's caverns, creating a rustic dining experience. With plates of Lucanian (aka…
Mediterranean Coast
Yes, you can dine on seafood here – as with all of Sciacca's portside restaurants – but the budget-minded will also find it a prime spot to sip sunset…
Gallipoli
For good Gallipoli spumone (layered ice cream with candied fruit and nuts) and refreshing granite (ices made with coffee, fresh fruit or locally grown…
Ostuni
This laid-back place harnesses the best of the region's produce, from Martina Franca's capocollo (cured pork neck) to whatever's been hauled from the…
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