Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy

  • Trattoria Casalinga

    Catania

    Presiding over this much-loved, family-run noshery is wise-cracking patron Nino, who does a thriving business feeding peckish office workers and theatre…

  • Exytus Caffè

    Bay of Naples

    It might just be a tiny hole-in-the-wall (OK, technically, there are two holes in the wall), but Exytus is a street cafe with a big reputation. Join the…

  • La Gatta Buia

    Matera

    With a sleekly decorated bar and dining areas and a menu that goes beyond Basilicatan classics, 'The Good Cat' is another feather in the cap of Matera's…

  • Osteria Sveva

    Syracuse

    Away from the main tourist maelstrom, Taberna Sveva occupies a quiet corner of Ortygia. On warm summer evenings the outdoor terrace is the place to sit,…

  • Ristorante Monte San Giuliano

    Erice

    Atmosphere-wise, this is one of Erice's more appealing eateries, entered through a crumbling archway that leads into a cool patio graced with drooping…

  • Osteria Pico

    Matera

    Basilicata's rugged, flavourful produce stars in this upmarket, split-level cave restaurant in Sasso Barisano. Try local specialities you may not find…

  • Friggitoria Chiluzzo

    Palermo

    There's a lot to be said for simplicity, like sitting curbside in the shadow of a baroque church and chowing down on cheap, delicious local street food…

  • Il Gallo e l'Innamorata

    Marsala

    Warm-orange walls and arched stone doorways lend an artsy, convivial atmosphere to this Slow Food–acclaimed eatery whose wonderfully evocative name…

  • Cisterna

    Naples

    With the Neapolitan breakfast habit of wolfing down an espresso and a croissant while standing at the bar, it's a challenge to find somewhere to indulge a…

  • Da Raffaele

    Ischia

    Handily situated in the middle of Via Roma, this brightly lit, welcoming place has few surprises on the menu but prepares everything well. Try the…

  • Blue of You

    Calabria

    Soak up the atmosphere at this lovely little restaurant, where blue lampshades, a Blue Note soundtrack and glimpses of the blue Tyrrhenian set the mood…

  • Alle due Corti

    Lecce

    Rosalba de Carlo, a noted repository of Salento gustatory wisdom, is the presiding authority in this authentic-as-it gets Pugliese kitchen. 'The Two…

  • Spaghetteria Pakkaro

    Western Sicily

    The chef cooks up tasty, unpretentious pasta and seafood dishes at this down-to-earth, atmospheric trattoria on Favignana's central piazza. Try busiate …

  • Pepe Nero

    Calabria

    This family-owned restaurant just off Pizzo's main square has a stylish outdoor deck, the ideal spot to enjoy local seafood like spada (swordfish), prawn…

  • Cantina Belvedere

    Cilento Coast

    North of Castellabate's castle, this restaurant clings limpet-like to the vertiginous cliff, guaranteeing great view of Santa Maria below. When you're not…

  • Caffè Cipriani

    Ionian Coast

    While it makes its own pastries, cakes and gelato, this 1950s veteran is famous for its granita, considered among the best in Sicily. If the weather is…

  • Nivera

    Southeastern Sicily

    When the urge to lick proves irresistible, Nivera has your back. This is one of the region's top gelaterie, using seasonal, local and organic produce to…

  • Bottega Tivitti

    Cefalù

    This casual waterfront spot serves pizzas, salads and inventive 'Sicilian burgers' made with top-of-the-line local ingredients – like the Tivitti Burger,…

  • Pizzeria Pellegrino

    Ionian Coast

    This popular joint in Aci Castello is a short walk from the town's famous castle. While the place offers salads and burgers, it's best known for its…

  • Gelateria Voglia Matta

    Syracuse

    'Voglia Matta' means 'Mad Desire', which is exactly what you'll feel at this busy corner gelateria. The ice cream here is superlative, made fresh and with…

  • Locanda del Marinaio

    Cefalù

    Fresh seafood rules the chalkboard menu at this upscale eatery along the old town's main waterfront thoroughfare. Depending on the season, you'll find…

  • Pasticceria Caprice

    Southeastern Sicily

    This popular cafe-cum-cake-shop is a great spot for a quick bite of lunch or a mid-afternoon pick-me-up. There's a daily selection of pastas and simple…

  • Il Gelato Mennella

    Naples

    Mennella has developed a cult following with its superb, all-natural gelato. Each flavour is made using fresh, prime ingredients, whether it's lemons from…

  • La Bottega del Marano

    Stromboli

    The perfect source for volcano-climbing provisions or a self-catering lunch, this reasonably priced neighbourhood grocery – at a bend in the road five…

  • Da Totò

    Central Sicily

    Don't let the stark white lights and bland decor put you off, this popular, affable trattoria serves excellent value-for-money food. Antipasti are of the…

  • Paninart

    Trani

    This compact and happening spot soundtracked by classic soul music combines good-value gourmet salads and panini sandwiches with a thoughtful selection of…

  • La Locanda

    Cosenza

    Just off Cosenza's pedestrian-friendly shopping street La Locanda is a centrally-located and versatile spot that's a favourite with local families. Pasta,…

  • Otto

    Mediterranean Coast

    Opened in July 2018, Otto's stylish and minimalist dining room, with just 10 tables, is the perfect showcase for modern reinterpretations of traditional…

  • Al Solito Posto

    Trapani

    A 15-minute walk east of the centre, this local hangout is a perennial Slow Food favourite. The food is superb: from primi like busiate al pesce spada e…

  • Kasbah

    Lipari

    Tucked down narrow Vico Selinunte, with a window where you can watch the chefs at work, this place serves everything from fancy pasta, fish and meat…

  • Dedalo

    Matera

    Dedalo's motto sensi sommersi (submerged senses) will either hint at pretension, or indicate the lengths this classy fine diner goes to to wow its…

  • L'Osservatorio

    Stromboli

    Sure, you could eat a pizza in town, but come on – you're on Stromboli! On clear evenings, nothing compares to the full-on views of the volcano's…

  • Trattoria Il Mulino

    Amalfi

    A TV-in-the-corner, kids-running-between-the-tables sort of place, this is about as authentic an eatery as you'll find in Amalfi. There are few surprises…

  • Fantasia Gelati

    Naples

    Many aficionados claim that when it comes to fruit flavours, no one comes close to this small gelateria, one of several Fantasia outposts across town…

  • Baccanti

    Matera

    Baccanti is as classy as a cave can be. The design is simple glamour against the low arches of the cavern; the dishes – perhaps ash-baked potato with…

  • Pane, Mortadella e Champagne

    Milazzo

    A good place for aperitivi or afternoon snacks, this hole-in-the-wall deli with sidewalk seating is opposite the waterfront, 500m north of the ferry…

  • Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale

    Ostuni

    This compact osteria serves up great food in a setting that manages to keep it classy, despite a kitsch chandelier and muzak soundtrack competing with…

  • La Rusticana

    Modica

    A Slow Food trattoria close to the railway station, homely, no-frills La Rusticana lists its short menu of daily specials on a blackboard. Influenced by…

  • A' Putia Bottega Siciliana

    Agrigento

    This wine bar fills the gap between snack bar and restaurant and is a good option for an informal lunch or dinner. Sicilian wines and craft beers are best…

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