Must-see restaurants in Italy

  • Ristorante Belvedere

    Monterosso

    With tables overlooking the beach, this unpretentious seafood restaurant is a good place to try the local bounty. Start with penne con scampi (pasta tubes…

  • The Cook al Cavo

    Genoa

    Admire the exquisite 17th-century frescoes of Bernardo Strozzi while dining on exquisitely prepared cuisine inside this spectacular dining room encased in…

  • La Rondinella

    Capri

    Graham Greene's favourite hang-out when he lived in these parts, La Rondinella sits in the heart of whitewashed Anacapri. Who knows what literary nuggets…

  • Lo Scoglio

    Sorrento Peninsula

    The only marina restaurant directly accessible from the sea, Lo Scoglio is a favourite of visiting celebs and has been around since the 1950s, when the…

  • Ristorante Giro di Boa

    Northwestern Tuscany

    When a break from traditional meat-heavy Tuscan beckons, reserve a table on the pocket-sized piazza terrace at this Barga newbie. Chef Riccardo Orsucci…

  • L'Isola dei Sapori

    Lake Iseo

    Only those of strong resolve will manage to walk past the al fresco bar at this deli-restaurant on Peschiera Maraglio’s harbourfront without stopping…

  • Pasticceria Poppella

    Naples

    Neapolitans from across the city revere this light, upbeat pastry shop for its fiocco di neve (snowflake), a soft, small brioche, dusted in icing sugar…

  • Divino

    Cilento Coast

    Follow the signs to La Piazzetta from the castle, via a short tunnel, and blink hard when you emerge at this movie-set marvel of a piazza, with its…

  • La Conchiglia

    Procida

    The 'seashell' is secluded on a narrow dark-sand beach with a warped jetty and the pastel jumble of Marina Corricella in the distance (take the steep…

  • L’Approdo

    Capri

    If you've arrived on the ferry with an appetite, head here, a two-minute walk to the left from where you disembark. You can easily fill up on the superb…

  • Bottega Portici

    Bologna

    This trendy pit stop under the shadow of the towers is great for high-quality Bologna specialities (such as tortellini in brodo or with sage and butter,…

  • Dalle Zie

    Northwestern Tuscany

    Locals rave about this tiny family-run trattoria on Cathedral Sq, aptly called 'By Auntie' and with an inviting 'Cibo e Vino' (food and wine) strapline…

  • Polentone

    Bergamo

    Boiled cornmeal (aka polenta) might not be the most handy of fast foods, but this small hole-in-the-wall will soon have you grabbing a takeout. Styling…

  • Rosticceria Gislon

    Venice

    Serving San Marco workers since the 1930s, this no-frills rosticceria (roast-meat specialist) has an ultramarine canteen counter downstairs and a small…

  • Ristorante Marechiaro da Bruno

    Pescara

    With more wait staff than some restaurants have customers, the Bruno is a sprawling seafood emporium right on the beachfront. It manages to serve hundreds…

  • FUD

    Palermo

    Slick, youthful and buzzing, FUD gives fast food a Slow Food makeover. Offerings include cheese and charcuterie platters, salads and panini, all playing…

  • Ristorante & Pizzeria da Gigino

    Vico Equense

    Run by the five sons of pizza king Gigino Dell’Amura, who introduced pizza by the metre to the world, this giant cafeteria-like pizzeria – the self…

  • Mercato di Mezzo

    Bologna

    Trade the packed-like-sardines Quadrilatero chaos for comparative calm in this revamped gourmet food hall, which was the town's original market after…

  • Fana Ladina

    The Dolomites

    For nearly half a century, this family-run restaurant in a revamped 17th-century farmhouse has been keeping ancient Ladin culinary traditions alive. Fana…

  • Trattoria Piè di Castello

    Lake Garda

    If you're looking for a real local experience, book a table at this wood-panelled travellers inn on the road to Tenno. It's been run by the same family…

  • Osteria Bacchus

    Cefalù

    Far from the madding crowd that descends on Cefalù each summer, this family-run restaurant in nearby Sant'Ambrogio boasts a relaxed and breezy terrace…

  • Donna Selvatica

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    On the Barbaresco hills overlooking the village, the name Donna Selvatica honours the local grappa producer Romano Levi for whom the 'wild woman' was a…

  • 100 Grammi

    Sorrento

    The Slow Food movement might have originated in Italy, but there isn't always time to wait 45 minutes for your hand-pinched ravioli. In which case, decamp…

  • Lo Smeraldino

    Amalfi

    Situated west of the centre, on the waterfront overlooking the fishing boats, this inviting blue-and-white beachside restaurant was founded in 1949. As…

  • Osteria all’Inferno dal 1905

    La Spezia

    Go early to score a table at this sprawling subterranean osteria, a famed destination for la cucina spezzina (La Spezia cooking). True to its name, this…

  • Funiculi Funiculá

    Massa Lubrense

    FF is a jack of all trades overlooking Marina della Lobra’s dinky harbor where the parked cars are usually Fiat 500s and the moored boats are equally…

  • L'Osteria del Vento

    Trieste

    For the city's best table with harbour views, head to Eataly's upstairs osteria. Clean and serene tones and nice use of wood offset the bustle, and the…

  • Ittiturismo La Peschiera

    Eastern Sardinia

    What swims in the Med in the morning lands on plates by lunchtime at this ittiturismo, run by Tortolì’s fishing cooperative. The fixed-price menu includes…

  • Osteria del Buchetto

    Umbria

    This modest osteria is at its best on warm summer evenings when you can sit outside and bask in romantic views over the valley towards Assisi. Its food is…

  • Bistrot del Quirino

    Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

    For unbeatable value near Trevi Fountain, reserve a table at this arty bistro adjoining Teatro Quirino. Theatre posters add bags of colour to the spacious…

  • Pasticceria Cappello

    Palermo

    One of Palermo's finest bakeries, Cappello is famous for its setteveli (seven-layer chocolate-hazelnut cake), invented here and long since copied all over…

  • AlpINN

    The Dolomites

    Triple Michelin-starred chef Norbert Niederkofler's newest venture is this giant glass-walled restaurant audaciously cantilevered over Kronplatz's steep…

  • Zazà Ramen

    Milan

    Owned by a Dutch chef and a Japanese entrepreneur, this noodle bar offers seasonal ramen dishes with Italo-Asian condiments like aubergine and miso as…

  • Osteria del Pettirosso

    Trentino & South Tyrol

    There's a moody downstairs dining room for evenings, but during the day join locals for a blackboard menu of small-producer wines by the glass, plates of…

  • Surfer Joe

    Livorno

    American burgers, onion rings, pancakes and all-day breakfasts are cooked up at this 1950s-styled surf bar and American diner adjoining Livorno's aquarium…

  • Gibran

    Venice

    Given Venice’s globe-trotting history, it’s high time the city had a quality Middle Eastern eatery such as this. Cut-brass lanterns hung with Venetian…

  • Bar Schiavoni

    Modena

    Just off the northwest corner of Mercato Albinelli, this lovely cafe run by a pair of adorable sisters specialises in panino al cotechino – small…

  • Combal Zero

    Turin

    Davide Scabin's tasting menus are theatrical, visual, visceral and mischievous, but despite such experimentation they are still deeply rooted in…

  • Al Grottino

    Capri

    Expect a queue here. Dating from 1937, Al Grottino was a VIP spot in the '50s and '60s (check out the photos in the window), and it continues to lure…

  • Ostello

    Catania

    Pub-like Ostello personifies Catania: grungy, youthful and arty. Hunker down among students, professors and backpackers for decent bulgur-and-vegetable…

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