Must-see restaurants in Italy

  • La Bettola del Gusto

    Pompeii

    Inspired by their mother Rosa's cooking, twins Alberto and Vincenzo Fortunato are the force behind this warm, good-value restaurant. The kitchen revels in…

  • Viva Lo Re

    Bay of Naples

    Whether you're after an inspired meal or a simple glass of vino, this refined yet relaxed osteria (casual tavern) is a solid choice. The wine list is…

  • Biancomangiare

    Naples

    Biancomangiare gives the classic trattoria a subtle modern makeover, its vintage photographs and pale-blue wooden chairs mixing it with low-slung filament…

  • Fattoria Maria

    Emilia-Romagna

    It's worth popping out to this truly family-run agriturismo 6.5km east of Carpi on a property flush with peach and apricot trees and a wealth of animals…

  • Cavallino

    Lake Como

    Ironically, it's lake-fish specialities that pack the menu at 'the Little Pony', a Slow Food eatery set on Varenna's quay. Among the highlights are…

  • I Tre Gufi

    Cilento Coast

    Follow the signs from Pisciotta's sweeping Piazza Raffaele Pinto to this restaurant in a star setting, its long, wide terrace overlooking the pine…

  • Mimi La Casa dei Sapori

    Bergamo

    Welcome to the fastest ‘Slow Food’ you’ll ever eat. Service in this environmentally conscious deli-restaurant is best described as breezy: you’ll be…

  • Botanica Lab

    Bologna

    Bologna's first plant-based bistro sits defiantly in the heart of ragú wonderland just off Piazza Maggiore. Vegan or not, it's a wonderful place for a…

  • Tischi Toschi

    Taormina

    With only a handful of tables (book ahead), this generous, Slow Food–acclaimed trattoria offers a level of creativity and attention to detail generally…

  • Babette

    Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

    This charming bistro is run by two sisters who formerly produced a fashion magazine, hence the chic interior. The kitchen turns out Italian dishes with a…

  • Sofì Street Food

    Pompeii

    Sofì hits the spot with cheap, tasty Neapolitan street food like rustic panino napoletano, a doughy roll stuffed with cheese and salami. Other options…

  • Osteria nella Pia'

    Northwestern Tuscany

    It's worth getting lost in Colonnata's tangle of narrow lanes to find this family-run osteria, a local favourite for tasty lardo platters and imaginative…

  • Nud e Crud

    Rimini

    Avoid the tourist onslaught along the waterfront and head to quaint Borgo San Giuliano where locals – including the mayor – go year-round for gourmet…

  • Trattoria Mangia e Bevi

    Naples

    Gigi Grasso's loud and lively Eat & Drink sees everyone from pierced students to bespectacled professori squeeze around the communal tables for delicious…

  • Agriturismo Barbagia

    Northwestern Sardinia

    With its folkloristic murals and farmhouse decor, this rustic agriturismo is a fine spot for an authentic Sardinian feast. Think starters of cheese, cured…

  • Da Matti

    Northwestern Tuscany

    This staunchly local foccaceria and merenderia (snack bar) is the perfect spot for lingering over a tasty plate of regional Lunigiana cheeses, salami and…

  • Flavio al Velavevodetto

    San Giovanni & Testaccio

    This cavernous trattoria is celebrated locally for its earthy, no-nonsense cucina romana (Roman cuisine). Antipasti and pastas are very good and the wine…

  • Osteria del Crotto

    Lake Como & Around

    Osteria del Crotto serves a whole slew of Slow Food Movement–authenticated products such as violino di capra della Valchiavenna (literally ‘violin goat of…

  • All’Antico Ristoro di’ Cambi

    Oltrarno

    Founded as a wine shop in 1950, this Oltrarno institution sticks closely to the traditional, with its long list of fine Tuscan wines and dried meats…

  • Locanda Lo Scudo

    The Veneto

    Just outside the medieval walls of Soave, Lo Scudo is half country inn and half high-powered gastronomy. Cult classics include a risotto of scallops and…

  • Cristallo Caffè

    Lake Garda

    There's a clockwork efficiency about Cristallo that isn't always present in tourist-heavy lakeside cafes in Italy. Plying ice cream since 1892, the 60…

  • Porto Fluviale

    Southern Rome

    A hip, buzzing corner restaurant-bar laden with industrial-chic, Porto Fluviale attracts a mixed crowd – lots of families included – with its spacious…

  • Osteria Il Grappolo

    Mediterranean Coast

    A friendly neighborhood osteria (casual tavern), Salvatore Ciaccio's 'Grappolo' embraces the Slow Food aesthetic: carefully chosen local ingredients…

  • Bisso Bistrot

    Palermo

    Frescoed walls, exposed ceiling beams and reasonably priced appetisers, primi (first courses) and secondi (main courses) greet diners at this swinging,…

  • Osteria da Zi Umberto

    Trastevere & Gianicolo

    If you know a joke in Italian, tell it to break through the theatrically gruff Roman exteriors of the staff at this classic local joint. Tourists often…

  • Eyem Zemen

    Western Sicily

    For a taste of Tunisia, try this delightful hole-in-the-wall in the heart of La Casbah, marked by a bilingual Italian-Arabic sign. Tunisian owner Fatiha…

  • Ristorante Il Cantuccio

    Noto

    Tucked into the courtyard of a former noble's palace, this inviting restaurant combines familiar Sicilian ingredients in inspired ways. Perennial…

  • FUD Bottega Sicula

    Catania

    With sharp service and pavement seating on trendy Via Santa Filomena, this hip, back-alley eatery epitomises youthful Catania's embrace of 'Sicilian fast…

  • Da Cicciotto

    Naples

    Perched on a cliff in the fishing village of Marechiaro, low-key yet elegant Da Cicciotto is a seasoned charmer. Edible highlights include a sublime…

  • Melius

    Pompeii

    Stop by this luscious gourmet deli to revel in the taste of Campania. There's a vibrant in-house restaurant where you can sit down to local delicacies…

  • À Putia

    Giardini-Naxos

    Tiny enoteca À Putia draws picky locals with its quality regional dishes. Tuck into a standout caponata (sweet-and-sour vegetable salad), pasta options…

  • Trattoria L'Altana

    Northwestern Tuscany

    Dining at this popular trattoria is akin to dining in someone's family home – that of Camilla, Angela and Giulia in this case, who cook up authentic…

  • Trattoria da Geremia

    Emilia-Romagna

    Proprietor Max describes his English as brutto (ugly), but that won't matter when he chucks down a log of house-cured salame at your table for you to…

  • Buonvento

    Abruzzo

    Books help furnish the rooms at Buonvento (great stacks of them piled up on the floor) along with avant-garde art and a global array of souvenirs from…

  • Pyramidencafe

    The Dolomites

    A fantasyland of fresh-baked cakes awaits you at this mountainside hideaway 10km northeast of Brunico, run by cookbook author Waltraud Tschurtschenthaler…

  • La Cialoma

    Southeastern Sicily

    Food-lovers flock here from across the southeast for long, lazy seafood feasts on the piazza or seaside terrace (book ahead). The latter is especially…

  • Delicatessen in Drogheria

    Ragusa

    DID is a hip deli-cafe-bistro in one, with communal tables, bar seating and playful '70s-style wallpaper running up the wall and ceiling. The open kitchen…

  • Micro

    Cisternino

    This charismatic little juice bar/lunch spot is the necessary counterbalance to the meaty excesses Cisternino is famous for. Market-fresh vegetables and…

  • Pasticceria Regoli

    Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo

    At weekends a queue marks the entrance to this elegant chandelier-lit pasticceria, much-loved since 1916. Its crostate (latticed jam tarts) are iconic, as…

  • Osteria degli Angeli

    Ferrara

    A perfect modern choice on a Monday evening when many restaurants are closed, this traditional-with-a-twist osteria and its very open kitchen (you can…

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