Avignon
Weird name; great food. This back-alley bistro near place Crillon is a strong local's tip. It's very French, but borrows flavours and spices freely:…
Must-see restaurants in Provence
The Luberon
Lunch with a view? Mais oui – and what a view. On the village's edge, this popular bistro boasts a grandstand, tree-shaded terrace overlooking classic…
Marseille
Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade…
Arles
Well-stuffed sandwiches – made to order, frotté à l'ail (rubbed with garlic) and dripping with silken AOC Vallée des Baux olive oil – lure the crowds to…
Marseille
This long-standing classic in a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views has plenty of atmosphere, however kitschy. Although this is one of the most…
Avignon
This place is pure charm. On cobbled-stone place des Chataignes (Chestnut Tree Square) it spills across to its ancient stone neighbour (Cloître St-Pierre)…
Avignon
Gourmet brioche-based burgers come in a multitude of guises, loaded with tempting goodies from smoked bacon and St-Nectaire cheese to caramelised onions,…
Marseille
Only Marseillais and the cognoscenti are privy to this little chalet with a very big view, secreted in the Jardin du Pharo. Its hillside terrace, shaded…
Gorges du Verdon
Hidden behind the soft-pink façade of Moustiers' Musée de la Faïence is this peaceful garden restaurant. Tables sit between olive trees and the colourful,…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
Beside a fountain in Forcalquier's old town, this homespun place is as traditional as it gets. All the dishes are made to timeworn recipes comme à la…
Avignon
In the town's studenty quarter near elegant place des Carmes, this no-fuss hang-out is ideal for solid, unpretentious grub like stir-fries, crusted cod,…
Marseille
A classic neighbourhood bar and bistro, the Longchamp Palace teems with convivial locals, especially after work. Stained glass windows that might have…
Marseille
Scotch and spanking-fresh seafood come together in this outpost of the Auld Alliance (the long-standing friendship between Scotland and France, cemented…
Arles
A favourite recommendation for bistro dining, Au Brin de Thym is chilled in vibe and creative in execution. The menu is dictated by seasons and the best…
Marseille
Night and day, this corner bar is a classic Le Panier hang-out whether you’re old, young, hip or in need of a hip replacement. It’s on a quiet backstreet…
Camargue
East of Stes-Maries, towards the Digue à la Mer on sandy Plage Est, is La Playa, the chic choice, with a particularly vibrant apéro and after-dark scene…
Les Calanques
The one restaurant in the tiny, pretty calanque of Morgiou is the delightful Nautic Bar. With terraces overlooking the port, it is a dreamy spot for…
Toulon
Traditional Provençal flavours get a modern twist at this little side-of-the-street brasserie, run by young entrepreneurs Pierre Andreini and Martial…
Camargue
Le Mas de Peint's gourmet restaurant, masterminded by highly credentialled chef Grégory Brousse, offers seasonal menus and Camarguais dishes in a choice…
Avignon
Deep in the medieval quarter, this welcoming bistro is a fun place to dine. Zinc tables, well-worn furniture and a busy, noisy kitchen out back conjure up…
Avignon
This place is so hip it hurts, from its in-your-face street-art murals to its junk-shop decor and on-trend slogans. The menu changes regularly, so there's…
The Luberon
Bonnieux’ huge Friday-morning market is (along with Apt’s) one of the biggest and best in the Luberon. It sprawls over several streets in the village…
Gorges du Verdon
The top place to eat in the village proper: classic Provençal cooking served with panache, either in the stone-walled dining room or on the terrace with…
Avignon
The chic dining room, in the former mansion of absinthe inventor Jules Pernod, is a fitting backdrop to the stylised Mediterranean cooking. Menus change…
Marseille
This swanky restaurant has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. Many splurge on what may be Marseille’s…
The Luberon
Go off the beaten path to find ice cream that's an art. Michel and Sigrid Perrière handcraft mind-boggling varieties of the sweet stuff: from lavender to…
Marseille
The Aixoise has given locals their daily bread, in all its forms – pain de campagne (country bread), crunchy ficelle (minibaguettes) or a classic baguette…
Aix-en-Provence
It’s all very cosy at Charlotte, where everyone knows everyone. French classics like veal escalope and grilled entrecôte steak are mainstays, and there is…
Avignon
When tastebuds tire of Provençal, consider this uber-cool Japanese restaurant. At home in a deconsecrated chapel on a beautiful stone-paved square in the…
The Luberon
Cuisines du monde is what’s on offer at this charming little bistro – in other words, a little bit of everything, from a splash of Asian spice to a…
Marseille
This deceptively shabby-looking restaurant opposite Plage des Catalans has been the culinary pride and joy of the Michel family since 1946. Contrary to…
Marseille
Peron is a premium address for seafood in Marseille, with the advantage of a stunning cliftop perch and views over the water to the Îles du Frioul. Expect…
Aix-en-Provence
Smack bang in the centre of old Aix, this jolly little restaurant specialises in southwestern cuisine, which means copious amounts of duck, rabbit and…
Marseille
It doesn’t get more Gallic than the 'Dugo' – chalkboard menus, wooden floors, vintage signs, giant mirrors and whip-smart waiters. Soak up the atmosphere…
Avignon
From the checked tablecloths to the booth seats, handwritten blackboards and vintage signs, this reliable bistro is a fine spot for hearty French dishes,…
Avignon
Forget flowery French descriptions. The menu is straightforward and to the point at this bistro-bar, where the stark white furniture and studiously…
The Luberon
Apt’s huge Saturday-morning market attracts hordes of locals and tourists alike. If you really want to see what a marché Provençal is all about, then make…
Les Calanques
This seasonal restaurant with excellent views has the best food in the Calanque de Sormiou. Reserve ahead – by phone only – which allows you to drive your…
Avignon
Le Marmiton, the super-formal restaurant of Hôtel La Mirande, offers cooking classes (from €90) and a twice-weekly chef’s table (reservations essential)…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
The pick of the places to eat in Banon: an informal bistro-bar, which has a prodigious selection of local wines by the glass, partnered with delicious…
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