Arles
A meal at Jean-Luc Rabanel's nearby flagship restaurant may be too expensive for some, but he knows how to do great bistro dining too. While bearing the…
Must-see restaurants in Provence
Avignon
Having worked at a smorgasbord of high-flying restaurants (including Copenhagen's Noma and Avignon's La Mirande), Jacques Pampiri opened his own place in…
Marseille
This admirably unpretentious bistro grows most of its organic veggies in its own potager (kitchen garden), from tomatoes to courgettes, salad leaves and…
Camargue
This house restaurant is an iconic address adored by Arlésians. Feast on grilled bull chops, mullet eggs and anchoïade (a powerful Provençal garlic and…
The Luberon
Another one of the Luberon's long-standing tables, overseen by bubbly Elisabeth Bourgeois, it's heavy on Provençal flavours: lots of stuffed aubergines,…
Marseille
There are plenty of ice-cream shops around Marseille, but there’s only one that sells black ice cream (coloured by vanilla pods, which lend a unique,…
Arles
Thirty-eight flavours of artisanal ice cream and sorbet are the mainstays of this glacier on busy place du Forum. Buy a cone to take away or treat…
Marseille
Having previously run restaurants in Antibes and Fort Lauderdale, husband-and-wife team Olivier and Sylvie opened this colourful bistro off cours Julien…
Arles
Alexandre's little joint (the 'Open Box') has become a firm Arlésian favourite for chilled evening eats in the courtyard of the Hôtel du Cloître. It…
Toulon
This is the restaurant that shows Toulon is slowly but surely shaking its down-at-heel image. With crisp white tablecloths, sparkling glasses and…
Marseille
This smart boulangerie and patisserie with a salon du thé (tearoom) attached produces some of Marseille's best pastries.
Marseille
Doing double duty as a bar à vin (wine bar) and Argentinian restaurant, L'Entre Pots is a great place to snack on plump empanadas, juicy entrecôte and…
Marseille
Decorated with plenty of wood and splashes of colour, the 'neo-bistro' Chez Vallès exemplifies the rise of newly hip neighbourhood Vauban. Fresh…
Marseille
Nestled within a welcoming Egyptian cultural centre, this cheery restaurant serves dishes of thick Egyptian flatbread, chunky hummus, creamy aubergine…
Marseille
This award-winning artisan chocolatier uses olive oil to achieve an otherworldly creaminess in its products. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
For just-like-mama-made-it French cuisine, it’s worth the 5km drive from Forcalquier to this unapologetically old-school bistro in Niozelles. You’ll need…
The Luberon
You won’t get a more honest Provençal lunch than at Maurice Leporati’s roadside inn, where the feast always starts with wicker trays filled with hors d…
The Luberon
What fun this place is: an offbeat French restaurant that's stocked to the gunwales with the owners' bric-a-brac finds, from vintage movie posters,…
Cassis
Run by brothers Laurent and Eric, this fish shop-cum-seafood restaurant has been a fixture on the Cassis waterfront for decades, and it shows no sign of…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
This Provençal restaurant at the Ecomusée l’Olivier near Volx is only open for lunch, but it's well worth a detour (and if you're visiting the museum it's…
The Luberon
Run by top chef Thomas Gallardo, the contemporary feel of this renowned 'semi-gastronomic' restaurant belies its country setting. Funky globe bulbs,…
Aix-en-Provence
Locals pack into the tiny vaulted dining room of this hard-to-find place for the superb-value lunch menus. All the bistro boxes are ticked: red-and-white…
Cassis
With its open-sided fireplace and pretty, art-filled dining room, this small restaurant makes a good refuge from the harbour-side hustle. It also provides…
The Luberon
Those short of time or money in Gordes should follow the locals downhill along rue Baptistin Picca to this pocket-sized boulangerie (bakery), which has…
Marseille
Vintage furniture, latticed blinds, old books and antique soft drink bottles lend a retro air to this style-conscious, 1950s-styled jazz comptoir (counter…
Avignon
Set on one of Avignon's most happening plane-tree-shaded squares, this vintage cafe styled like a 1950s grocery is a charming spot to hang out and people…
Arles
You won't find a much better lunch venue than this convivial canteen within the emergent cultural centre Fondation Luma. The food is light and colourful,…
The Luberon
Located at the lovely Bastide du Jas B&B, this refined restaurant has proved popular both with the locals and the foodie guides (it recently received a…
Camargue
The charismatic couple who run this unpretentious address, with cartwheels for tables, cook up the catch of the day à la plancha (grilled) for eight…
The Luberon
In the middle of town next to the fountain, ‘The Oven’ is another of Bonnieux’ most consistent tables. There’s a choice of settings: the swish interior …
Marseille
On the top floor of Marseille’s flagship museum, MuCEM, Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat cooks up exquisite French fare alongside big blue views of…
Camargue
A seasonal regular, this beach restaurant shaded by a reed pergola provides the perfect lookout to the Plage Ouest and the Mediterranean beyond. Lounge at…
Marseille
Occupying a magical spot on the little harbour of Vallon des Auffes, this old favourite has a split-level layout and picture windows overlooking the boats…
Marseille
This is no ordinary all-you-can-eat: a sleek modern dining room spreads around a buffet overflowing with Italian, Spanish and (above all) Provençal…
Avignon
A typical French bistro, Fou de Fafa's strength lies in simplicity – fresh ingredients, bright flavours, convivial surroundings (and a notably early…
Avignon
There's one standout reason to lunch at this homey restaurant, and that's the delightful courtyard garden, shaded by sails, tall bamboo and climbing…
Aix-en-Provence
Places come and go around the Forum des Cardeurs, but ‘The Thingy’ is an enduring, cheap and cheerful favourite, with flowery PVC tablecloths, a vast…
Arles
Eighteenth-century stone walls, a wooden bar, a fireplace, friendly staff and French/Provençal food that's not afraid to play with Asian ingredients like…
Camargue
If you've developed a desire to get closer to the Camargue's bulls by eating them, then head to the Grange, an ode to Camargue's gardians, with bull…
Marseille
This classy Italian trattoria on the buzzy cours Julien is perennially popular. All the pasta here is homemade, and ingredients are sourced from Italy…
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