Must-see restaurants in Cuba

  • Compay Gallo

    Santiago de Cuba

    Upstairs in a typical narrow Santiago street on the cusp of the city center, Compay Gallo does classic Cuban food with mixed results. Try the prawn…

  • Restaurante Costarenas

    Habana del Este

    This scruffy place is part of Villa Los Pinos, but it'll serve you its OK-ish fish dishes and pizzas either on a breezy 1st-floor terrace or under…

  • Pizzería Mi Rinconcito

    Habana del Este

    Located near Villa Los Pinos, this place serves up a reasonably good pizza-fest, plus cannelloni, lasagna, salads and spaghetti. Ideal for beach day…

  • Café Cubita

    Camagüey

    Just off Plaza de los Trabajadores, Cubita is alfresco and lively. And it really does stay open all hours, offering cold beer and 3am ropa vieja (shredded…

  • El Cubano

    Habana del Este

    This is a spick-and-span place at Guanabo's western, Boca Ciega end, with a full wine rack (French and Californian), checked tablecloths and a good…

  • Restaurante Mural de la Prehistoria

    Valle de Viñales

    Steep but almost worth it, the Mural's humongous set lunch – tasty pork roasted and smoked over natural charcoal – is an obligatory stop for practically…

  • El Barrio

    Viñales

    A fairly modest restaurant with a rarely crowded terrace overlooking the main drag, with kind and friendly staff plying plentiful if mediocre food – a mix…

  • Cafetería El Parque

    Baracoa

    The favored meeting place of just about everyone in town, you're bound to end up at this open terrace at some point, if only to crack open a can of…

  • Lai-Lai

    Varadero

    An old stalwart set in a two-story mansion on the beach, Lai-Lai has traditional Chinese set menus. Food gets mixed reports but, well, if you've been…

  • Polinesio

    Cienfuegos

    Right under the portals in Parque José Martí, this colonial perch is great for snacks rather than fine-dining. Settle down for a cold beer and perhaps a…

  • Supermercado 3ra & 70

    Havana

    Formally known as the 'Diplomercado,' from the days when only diplomats came here, this place is large by Cuban standards and has a decent selection of…

  • Cremería 1514

    Camagüey

    Prize for the oddest installation in the lakeside park, Cremería 1514 serves up ice cream in the fuselage of an old Soviet plane – a 1960s Antonov A26.

  • Mercado Agropecuario

    Trinidad

    Trinidad's agropecuario (vegetable market) isn't London's Covent Garden, but you should still be able to get basic fruits and vegetables.

  • Restaurante Italiano Santa Teresa

    Camagüey

    An Italian feast-in-waiting. Divine pizza, great ice cream and more-than-passable espresso on the patio definitely make this a spot to savor.

  • Restaurante Plaza Mayor

    Trinidad

    Trinidad's best government-run restaurant courtesy of its on-again/off-again lunchtime buffet, which ought to fill you up until dinnertime.

  • La Campana de Toledo

    Camagüey

    Offering comida criolla (creole food), this classic Camagüey eatery has colonial digs, a shady patio and a serenading quartet.

  • Gran Hotel

    Camagüey

    A 5th-floor restaurant with superb city views and a rather nice buffet; get here early to watch the sun set over the church towers.

  • La Época

    Havana

    This supermarket is in the basement of a department store. Check your bags outside before entering this old-school Havana emporium.

  • Gran Hotel Snack Bar

    Camagüey

    Has coffee, sandwiches, chicken and ice cream. The hamburgers (when available) are good and the atmosphere is 1950s retro.

  • Doña Neli

    Cienfuegos

    Cuba's default bakery knocks out decent treats in the pastries, bread and cakes department. Close to the bus station

  • Panadería Doña Neli

    Camagüey

    For bread and delicate cakes, try this particularly well-stocked bakery, opposite the Gran Hotel. Follow the aroma.

  • Mercado Agropecuario

    Bayamo

    The vegetable market is just northwest of the train station. There are many peso food stalls along here also.

  • El Marinero

    Cienfuegos

    This is a smart spot at sea level in Club Cienfuegos. Open at lunchtimes for snacks and light meals.

  • Fiesta Guajira

    Santiago de Cuba Province

    Once a rodeo; now mainly just a restaurant serving comida criolla (typical Cuban food).

  • Panadería Doña Neli

    Santiago de Cuba

    Hard-currency bakery on Plaza de Marte, vending divine-smelling bread and cakes with a scowl.

  • Dorado Café

    Baracoa

    Small private cafe in the center of Baracoa that sells pizza, sandwiches and the like.

  • Agropecuario

    Holguín

    Vegetable market in an offshoot of Calle 19 near the train station.

  • Galería Comercial Universo

    Trinidad

    Mini shopping center that includes a variety of shops for most of your immediate needs including Trinidad's best (and most expensive) grocery store. Head…

  • Cuadro Gastronómica de Luz Vázquez

    Bayamo

    Along this short lane are parked at least a dozen clean-looking food carts selling bayamés street snacks (pay in Cuban pesos). Bank on hot dogs,…

  • Mercado Agropecuario La Plaza

    Santiago de Cuba

    The main market, two blocks west of Parque Céspedes, seems small considering the size of the city, but sells all the produce, meats and viandas (starches)…

  • Dulcinea

    Trinidad

    This bakery and cake shop retains a busy street-corner atmosphere, cleanish toilets and a couple of internet terminals (CUC$3 for 20 minutes).

  • Supermercado Plaza de Marte

    Santiago de Cuba

    One of the better-stocked supermarkets in town, with a great ice cream selection. It's just beyond the northeastern corner of Plaza de Marte.

  • Tienda Villa Los Pinos

    Habana del Este

    Tienda Villa Los Pinos is a small grocery store for self-caterers at the Villa Los Pinos hotel.

  • Mini-Super Santa María

    Habana del Este

    This small grocery store is opposite the Hotel Marazul near Playa Santa María del Mar.

  • Agropecuario Belén

    Habana Vieja

    Vieja's modest local farmers market. Come and see where your casa-particular owner bought this morning's breakfast.

  • La Luz de Yara

    Holguín

    Relatively well-stocked Cuban department store and supermarket with a bakery section on Parque Calixto García.

  • Mini Super Caracol

    Trinidad

    This store has a decent selection of groceries and a resident hawker outside plying cigars.

  • La Candonga

    Holguín

    Cheap food stalls next to the baseball stadium. Not for those with sensitive tummies.

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