Must-see restaurants in Cuba

  • La Fortaleza

    Santiago de Cuba

    In a conducive setting amid Vista Alegre's mansions, this spacious, inviting shady patio serves above-average food (pay in pesos) alongside live music at…

  • Cremería Helados Pompón

    Matanzas

    Another artistic surprise on awakening Calle Narváez (aka Calle 97), Pompón is an ice cream–biased cafe that doubles as an art gallery, workshop and…

  • Restaurante-Bar San José

    Holguín

    A hub of locals slap-bang in the central square (Parque San José) with mismatched paint and uniformed servers. The menu is nothing fancy, but this is…

  • Parador La Silla

    Cayo Coco

    This thatched-roof snack bar is halfway along the causeway into Cayo Coco. After a coffee, beer or sandwich, you could climb the adjacent lookout tower…

  • Restaurante Los Helechos

    Cuba

    The best state-run eating option at El Nicho is this open-sided rustic restaurant offering the standard round of rice, beans, meat and root vegetables,…

  • Restaurante Don Carlos

    Holguín Province

    Salt-of-the-earth, meet-the-locals private restaurant where you can discover the other side of Cuba over some pretty decent seafood less than 30 minutes…

  • La Rampa

    Varadero

    A modest private place that's family-run and rightly lauded for its thoroughly decent food. Seating is half inside and half out. The lobster tails are…

  • Cremería Guamá

    Holguín

    Havana's famous ice-cream parlor. Lose an hour underneath the striped red-and-white awning overlooking pedestrianized Calle Manduley and enjoy peso treats…

  • Don Pepe

    Habana del Este

    When the Guanabo pizza gets too much, head to this thatched-roof, beach-style restaurant about 50m from the sands of Playa Santa María. It specializes in…

  • Restaurante Café Cienfuegos

    Cienfuegos

    This is the most ambitious of the eating options at Club Cienfuegos. It's a refined place on the top floor, where you'll pay CUC$12 and up for a steak or…

  • Mama Inés

    Habana Vieja

    Mama's is run by Fidel Castro's ex-chef Erasmo, whose CV lists a veritable who’s who of celebrity 'lefties' he's cooked for, from Hollywood actors to…

  • Sitio del Compay

    Santiago de Cuba Province

    Siboney's only real dining option serves no-frills comida criolla (Creole food) with friendly service and good beach views. It's in the former house of…

  • El Barracón

    Santiago de Cuba

    El Barracón tries to reignite the roots of Afro-Cuban culture and cuisine with mixed results. The state-run restaurant's interior, a mix of atmospheric…

  • Casa del Queso La Marriage

    Habana Vieja

    A good idea that started well but has since gone a bit mouldy, this specialist cheese shop serves cheese boards accompanied by glasses of Chilean wine –…

  • 1869 Restaurant

    Cienfuegos

    The elegant restaurant in the Hotel La Unión has food that doesn't quite match the lush furnishings. Most days there's a buffet with à la carte options…

  • Cafe Hotel Casa Granda

    Santiago de Cuba

    Positioned like a whitewashed theater box overlooking the unscripted cabaret of Parque Céspedes, the Casa Granda's Parisian-style terrace cafe has to be…

  • Restaurante Mesón del Quijote

    Varadero

    Next to a statue of Cervantes' famous Don who seems to be making off rather keenly toward the all-inclusive resorts, this restaurant is one of the eastern…

  • Cafetería Cristal

    Holguín

    Typical of such cafes across Latin America: Cristal's reliable and affordable chicken meals are dished up by formal waiters whose elegance prepares you…

  • Restaurante Plaza

    Bayamo

    The Hotel Royalton hosts one of the town's best restaurants; nothing legendary mind you, but with an excellent setting including the option to sit outside…

  • La Bodega

    Bayamo

    On Bayamo's main square, head to the rear terrace overlooking Río Bayamo, fringed by a bucolic backdrop worthy of an isolated country villa. Set menus…

  • La Mina

    Habana Vieja

    With a mediocre menu but a top-class location, state-run La Mina graces a shady corner of Plaza de Armas (so every tourist walks past it at some point)…

  • Cubita Restaurant

    Trinidad

    Setting Cubita apart from Trinidad's other higher-end restaurants is the complimentary amuse-bouche commencing the dining experience. This is where its…

  • Paraito

    Trinidad

    Here's a rarity for Trinidad: a no-frills eatery with stand-up tables filled by locals engaged in quick-fire gossip. The fried rice is good, or opt for a…

  • Mesón del Regidor

    Trinidad

    A cafe-restaurant with a friendly ambience and a revolving lineup of local musicians, including the best trovadores (traditional singer-songwriters), who…

  • La Sevillana

    Bayamo

    Come and see Cuban chefs attempt Spanish cuisine – paella and garbanzos (chickpeas). This is a new kind of peso restaurant, with a dress code (no shorts),…

  • Café Santo Domingo

    Habana Vieja

    Squeezed above a busy local bakery in one of Habana Vieja's oldest buildings, this no-frills, light-on-the-wallet place is aimed more at locals than…

  • Restaurante Paris

    Habana Vieja

    The 'Paris' is all about the setting: one of Havana's finest 18th-century baroque mansions, situated slap-bang in the middle of its most beautiful square,…

  • Restaurante España

    Santiago de Cuba

    Get ready for the Arctic blast of air-conditioning and readjust your Cuban-food preconceptions before you walk into España. It specializes in seafood…

  • La Vicaria

    Varadero

    Inexplicably, this unspectacular ranchón-style (rustic, opened-sided restaurant) government-run restaurant remains popular, and it's surely something to…

  • Palacio de Valle

    Cienfuegos

    The food doesn't have as many decorative flourishes as the eclectic architecture, but the setting is unique and it would be a shame to miss it. Seafood…

  • Restaurante la Casa de Don Tomás

    Viñales

    The oldest house in Viñales was once its only independent restaurant, but no more. Nonetheless, with its terracotta roof, terrace and flowering vines, it…

  • Hanoi

    Habana Vieja

    The name might suggest solidarity with 'communist' Vietnam, but don't get too excited: you won't find any Saigon-flavored spring rolls here. Instead, what…

  • Café Atenas

    Matanzas

    Settle down on the terraza (terrace) with the local students, taxi drivers and hotel workers on a day off, and contemplate everyday life on Plaza de la…

  • Restaurant El Latino

    Holguín Province

    A long-standing Banes favorite, this state-run place should be newly renovated by the time you visit. With all the usual Creole dishes delivered with a…

  • El Viejo Amigo

    Havana

    In an upstairs location on Calle Dragones, this place is run by Chi Tack Tong Chinese Association and has long been famous for its extensive menu and…

  • Taberna Pancho

    Holguín

    This bar-restaurant inspired by the Mirador de Mayabe's famous beer-drinking donkey has echoes of a Spanish tavern, done up in dark wood. The menu…

  • Bar-Restaurante El Cocodrilo

    Playa Girón

    Popular post-dive spot in Playa Girón; an open-sided beach-shack-style opposite the approach road to Hotel Playa Girón. Warm up with a cocktail at the bar…

  • Restaurante la Cova

    Havana

    Part of the Pizza Nova chain, this place, like much of Marina Hemingway, has seen better days. It's an OK choice if you're short on options (which you…

  • Santiago 1900

    Santiago de Cuba

    In the former Bacardí residence you can dine on the standard chicken, fish or pork for Cuban pesos in a plush dining room that recently recovered its fin…

  • Casa de Los Amigos

    Holguín Province

    Both casa and private restaurant, this place has an amazing interior patio with frescoes, a gazebo and hand-painted Gibara doors. It rents rooms, but the…

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