Must-see restaurants in West Africa

  • Le Pêcheur

    Lomé

    The name gives it away: this is a fantastic seafood place where you'll enjoy fish fillet a la plancha (cooked on a griddle) and skewered gambas (prawns)…

  • Restaurant Hotel Hippocampe

    Brazzaville

    The open-for-all restaurant of the Hotel Hippocampe serves good Vietnamese dishes and, on Friday and Saturday evenings, they put on a very popular and…

  • Restaurant Moderne

    Guinea

    Locals will rightly tell you that this friendly place, which is a proper restaurant rather than just a market stall, is the best place in town to eat…

  • Restaurant Le Nzalangoye

    Republic of Congo

    This casual place on Ouesso's main drag offers a very high standard of cooking – try the excellent river-fish dishes. There's a pleasant saloon-style…

  • Le Moulin

    Cameroon

    Right on the roundabout in the thick of things, Le Moulin is the best eating option in Limbe's town centre. The menu encompasses ndole, chicken and beef…

  • Ikoyi Hotel Suya

    Lagos

    Lagosians claim the best suya in town can be found at the stall outside the Ikoyi Hotel. Not just beef and goat, but chicken, liver and kidney, plus some…

  • Avenue

    Conakry

    Classy, expat-popular, American-style diner serving oversized burgers stuffed with cheddar cheese, pickles and salads. It also does fish 'n' chips and…

  • Yellow Chilli

    Lagos

    Well-presented Nigerian dishes in swish surroundings. It's carried off well, with tasty dishes in reasonable portions and good service – a great way to…

  • Restaurant Orchidée

    Brazzaville

    Classic French dishes such as confit de canard and steak and chips are the lifeblood of this classy city-centre dining option. You can eat out on the…

  • Nopégali Plage

    Lomé

    You'll find no cheaper place for a sit-down meal in the centre. It's very much a canteen, but a good one, with friendly service and copious African dishes…

  • La Parisienne

    Libreville

    This is a pleasant place for breakfast, serving coffee, croissants and cakes. It's large inside, and has a few tables and bar stools outside, too. The…

  • A Grelha

    Cabo Verde

    Locals flock to this simple Portuguese-run restaurant for the amazing grilled tuna belly (barriga de atum), skewered and served with potatoes on a…

  • Fish Market

    Cameroon

    This market at Kribi's marina grills the day's catch over coals. From crab and lobster to massive barracuda, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better and…

  • Zepol

    Cameroon

    The best and most stylish takeaway patisserie and boulangerie (bakery) in town, founded 1968. The wood-lined interior is decorated with carnival masks…

  • Le Gentilhommière Plus

    Conakry

    Le Gentilhommière Plus doesn't look all that much from the outside, but the bamboo, thatch and calabash interior invites you to stick around a while, as…

  • Alliance Française

    Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

    Aside from its cultural offerings, the restaurant of the Alliance Française does cheap, tasty meals of the day. For coffee or a drink, the bar stays open…

  • Pastelaria

    São Tomé & Príncipe

    Run by the former chef at Bom Bom resort, this humble gem punches well above its weight. The very clean kitchen turns out a dinner menu each night. Also…

  • Super Class Restaurant

    Cameroon

    This cute little shack in Nkwen Nkwen, Bamenda, with red tablecloths and friendly service, serves up simple Cameroonian fare such as fried chicken and…

  • Art Cafe

    Lagos

    A lovely little cafe-pub which also sells arts and crafts. It does good coffee and snacks, and the laid-back arty vibe is a nice contrast to the bland…

  • Naida

    Boa Vista

    Grab a table in the back-room restaurant of this friendly traditional spot on the northeast side of Sal Rei's plaza for a simple and inexpensive meal of…

  • Passante

    São Tomé

    Across the road from the sea, the outdoor patio of this ever-popular cafe is the place to be for beautiful morning seaviews, and for breakfast any time…

  • O Poeta

    Cabo Verde

    On the main street leading up from Nova Sintra's square, this restaurant with a terrace serves decent fish and meat dishes off a picture menu. There's…

  • Le Glacier Moderne

    Cameroon

    A central breakfast spot serving fresh juices, pastries, omelettes and coffees. There's an ice-cream counter, a gilded zebra-patterned screen and a…

  • Cantinho de Amizade

    Santo Antão

    A down-home place near the main plaza with a courtyard (and partial mountain views). Come for pork cutlets, fried fish, spaghetti and good-value lunch…

  • China Town

    Lomé

    Welcoming, reliable and in a good location at the Kodjoviakopé end of the Blvd Circulaire, this place offers a great selection of steamed dumplings and…

  • B-24

    São Tomé

    The best of the many restaurant shacks lining Parque Popular, this simple thatched hut packs an enormous punch with its fish of the day, as its many…

  • Saldomar

    Guinea-Bissau

    Authentic wood-oven pizza and other Italian dishes served up in a nice al fresco dining area by the gracious Spanish owner/chef. A short walk up from the…

  • Relais du Rais

    Senegal

    A simple sit-down eatery with a limited menu of good home-cooking, usually along the lines of poulet yassa and grilled fish of the day.

  • Cafeteria 2000

    Togo

    If you're not eating at your hotel, try this basic snack bar, where the menu spells out every possible combination of meat and side dish. It's BYO beer.

  • Ponto de Encontro

    Guinea-Bissau

    Moved from its previous location, this place is run by a friendly Portuguese family. Head there for hearty fare and a glimpse into Bafatá's past.

  • Restaurant Agadir

    Mauritania

    Near the rond-point, this cheap and cheerful eatery rustles up some good couscous and tajines as well as sandwiches and lighter bites.

  • Atlantic Bakery

    Cameroon

    Limbe's best spot for breakfast if your hotel doesn't serve it. Here you'll find life's essentials such as fresh-baked pastries and coffee.

  • Supermarche Le Bon Choix

    Mauritania

    Largest and nicest supermarket in Nouâdhibou with an upstairs cafe where regulars go for coffee, pastries and catch football games on TV.

  • Ali Baba Snack Bar

    Banjul

    Banjul's main snack bar has a deserved reputation for tasty shwarma (sliced, grilled meat and salad in pita bread) and felafel sandwiches.

  • Amore Mio

    Conakry

    Two dozen different flavours of homemade ice creams fill the freezers of this bubbly pink cafe that attracts well-to-do locals and expats.

  • Cape Cod

    Cabo Verde

    Popular lunchtime spot that locals storm for good and inexpensive daily specials (a deal at CVE400). It's simple, down home and friendly.

  • Rooster Restaurant

    Sierra Leone

    You could hardly call it refined, but if it's tasty and cheap fried chicken you're after, this is a good place to head for.

  • Boulangerie La Paix

    Cameroon

    This bakery sells good bread and sticky sweet treats in the morning, and is a handy general food shop the rest of the day.

  • CKADO

    São Tomé

    Occupying a prime location on the edge of the bay, that unmistakable blue box is a surprisingly enormous supermarket.

  • Restaurant La Paillotte

    Mauritania

    Above-average seafood and more-standard meat and chicken dishes; located inside the Italian-owned Hotel Mauritalia.

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