Must-see restaurants in West Africa

  • Nik's Pizza

    Kumasi

    Sit at plastic chairs and tables in a rustic garden while friendly waiters serve decent thin-crust wood-fired pizza . Walking here after dark isn't…

  • Le Bateau Ivre

    Libreville

    The Bateau isn't drunken at all, in fact it's rather refined, with a huge glass window giving views over the open sea, a smart menu of sophisticated…

  • Caribbean Fusion Restaurant

    Sierra Leone

    Krio goes back to its roots at this no-frills Caribbean joint. Written up on the chalkboard outside you'll find a choice of two or three mains a day …

  • La Maison de Celine

    Dakar

    Tucked down a sleepy street in N'Gor, Celine is the go-to place for excellent pizzas – cooked up in a wood-burning oven – as well as less outstanding…

  • La Dolce Vita

    Libreville

    Ocean views, a great bar, and fabulous seafood, pastas and pizzas make this local institution within the bustling passenger port a Libreville favourite…

  • Gaya Art Café

    Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

    Arty, veggie, healthy and organic, this is an unlikely addition to Senegambia's loud and boisterous food stations. The airy sculpture garden with its…

  • Black Mamba

    Santo Antão

    A friendly, Italian-owned spot that serves up delicious pizzas and pastas as well as seafood (whatever is fresh for the day). It's located inland, a short…

  • Maquis Savanna

    Benin

    The chef, Guillaume, serves up French-Moroccan–North African fare such as Moroccan lamb and tagine, creamy hummus, excellent meats and river fish, all…

  • Jasmin

    São Tomé

    Jasmin is noted for being located in the only restored colonial building in the city, the lightly used Casa Cultural. After walking the streets on a hot…

  • Bliss

    Sierra Leone

    Eternally popular Bliss offers an eclectic menu (curry, Thai, Sierra Leonean, lasagne...) in a peaceful garden setting just off busy Wilkinson Rd. A hit…

  • Restaurant L'Orientale

    Rio Muni

    A huge, sprawling place on the seafront, this grand restaurant offers good Lebanese food and generous, if doughy, pizzas. With few customers these days,…

  • Wooden Bakery & Coffee Shop

    Ghana

    As well as freshly baked goodies and Italian coffee, this popular joint serves up tasty Lebanese dishes, burgers and pizzas on an expansive terrace just…

  • Restaurant Naby

    Rio Muni

    Part of the Hotel Finisterre San Pedro, this restaurant is set in a shady terrace and offers good pastries and omelettes for breakfast (but no coffee)…

  • Maria Augusta Bakery

    Cabo Verde

    The friendly Maria Augusta churns out delicious bread and pastries from the giant wood-burning oven inside what looks like a garage. Look for an orange…

  • Fogo Lounge

    Cabo Verde

    As the drinks flow, afternoons quickly slip through to evenings at this stylish outdoor restaurant-lounge bar. Meals revolve around sandwiches, salads,…

  • Calerom

    Cabo Verde

    Calerom's open-air courtyard makes a laid-back setting for grilled meat and seafood dishes. It draws locals on game days – note the murals of Messi and…

  • Cabo Cafe Restaurant

    Boa Vista

    A great-value Italian-owned place serving up some of the best seafood dishes in Sal Rei. Grab a seat on the breezy terrace above the street and enjoy fish…

  • Tessa's

    Sierra Leone

    Authentic Sierra Leonean dishes such as black-eyed beans with plantain, palm-oil stew, fufu (fermented cassava, cooked and puréed) and sour-sour are on…

  • Happy Corner

    Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

    One of Cape Point's best-known spots, Happy Corner – also known as Mr Bass and Bendula Bar – serves up decent grilled fish (including a respectable…

  • 90 (Noventa) Bistro

    Cabo Verde

    With its outdoor tables on the pedestrian strip, this stylish eating and drinking spot is a great place to start the night off in the Platô. There are…

  • Restaurant La Fleur de Makoa

    Republic of Congo

    In the small dining room inside Makoa's best hotel, this restaurant certainly doesn't look like much, but the hotel owner cooks up a real feast and it's a…

  • La Luna Complex

    Malabo

    Superb sea views from the wide terrace complement the good food here. The menu is mostly French with a few African options. Try the barracuda or giant…

  • Le Cozy

    Dakar

    Waltz through Le Cozy's heavy wooden doors and you're instantly swept off the market streets into a temple of refined cuisine – presentation and service…

  • Kentish Kitchen

    Kumasi

    Set in a pretty garden within the National Cultural Centre, this simple restaurant serves good Ghanaian dishes such as red-red (bean stew), fufu …

  • Atelier

    Santo Antão

    This artsy hideaway behind Hotel Paul Mar is the local hipster hang-out. Run by a young musician and his wife, it serves yummy snacks, traditional dishes…

  • Vila Luanda

    Cabo Verde

    Two blocks from Nova Sintra's main square, this casual place serves up some of the best meals in town, with changing daily specials – like oven-baked…

  • Cactus

    Lagos

    This place labels itself primarily as a patisserie, but it also serves up proper meals throughout the day. Breakfasts of pancakes or bacon are good, as…

  • Tortuga

    Cabo Verde

    For a special meal, make dinner reservations at Tortuga B&B, where Italian owner Roberto cooks up innovative seafood dishes based on his father's old…

  • Pres Cafe

    Cameroon

    Bamenda's Pres Cafe offers rare finds in Cameroon: good local coffee including cappuccino, fresh salads, carrot cake and a wide range of natural juices…

  • Sofia Café

    Cabo Verde

    This pleasant cafe-restaurant in Platô has outdoor tables on the square and a good selection of small sharing plates, including marinated octopus, grilled…

  • D's Bazaar

    Sierra Leone

    Both the name and the food beat the decor at this local plasas spot. The menu changes daily, according to what's on hand, but you can expect to fill up…

  • Cabane du Pecheur

    Senegal

    Overlooking the waterfront and a few steps from the Fadiout bridge, this pleasant place serves up decent poulet yassa, lotte (a kind of white fish)…

  • Coconut Dream Bar & Restaurant

    Ghana

    This rustic, bamboo restaurant is painted in the colours of the Ghanaian flag and has a breezy 1st-floor dining area. At night, benches are placed out in…

  • O Poeta

    Cabo Verde

    O Poeta has a solid reputation for a no-nonsense menu of paella, rice with octopus, filet mignon and tuna tartare. It's also the go-to spot for a fabulous…

  • Bar Tropikal

    Cabo Verde

    One of Maio's best-loved destinations, this beachfront spot serves a good range of food, including daily fish and chicken specials, plus pastas, pizza,…

  • Tropical Club

    Cabo Verde

    Just up from the main square, this cheerful restaurant with a palm-shaded terrace has an extensive menu of mainly seafood dishes; try the delicious Fogo…

  • Le Soleil de Saly

    Senegal

    The buzzing new favourite in town has a central location on the main drag and serves up tasty grilled meat and fish dishes, with live music three nights a…

  • Gina's

    Sierra Leone

    Frozen yoghurt fans (or fans of lime green and purple colour schemes) will be very happy here. Sugar-laden waffle fans won't do too badly either. For…

  • Dizzy Lizzie's

    Ghana

    This chilled beach-front restaurant a short walk down the sand from Big Milly's serves a mix of international and Ghanaian food. There's live music on…

  • Crown Bakery

    Sierra Leone

    This cool, air-conditioned space provides welcome respite from the hectic streets of central Freetown. Popular with local office workers, expat and…

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