Lomé
The Napoléon Lagune is not in the centre but its perch on a lively stretch of the Bé lagoon is outstanding. It offers a range of well-equipped (if…
Must-see hotels in West Africa
Togo
Down a dirt track in the stadium's neighbourhood you'll find this cosy bird's nest in a proudly maintained and flowered little compound; rooms are…
Lomé
This perennial favourite is run by a friendly and efficient Swiss woman. Rooms in the massive wood structure are spotless and bright; camping is available…
Mauritania
A fabulous French-run place, with six charming rooms, excellent food (to be taken in the courtyard garden), a library and even a massage room for real…
Lomé
A fantastic choice, with bright clean rooms. Extra touches like colourful wall murals in the rooms put a smile on your face each morning, as does the over…
Conakry
The doily-adorned couches, cute living room and caring owners make this one a five-heart guesthouse, if not a five-star hotel, and as such it seems to…
Mauritania
Bab Sahara has been a little slice of overlanders' heaven since 1999. There's a selection of tikits (stone huts) with air-con, caravans and tents, plus a…
Burkina Faso
This lovely guesthouse, run by Dutch-Burkinabé couple Franca and Moctar, sits in the leafy neighbourhood of Koko, east of the centre, just off the main…
Abidjan
If the Flintstones won the lottery and moved to West Africa, they'd live somewhere like this. Set in large grounds, Le Wafou's gorgeous bungalows take…
Burkina Faso
With its four zealously maintained rooms, prim bathrooms, atmospheric veranda, colourful garden and pool, Villa Bobo is a delight. Xavier, the French…
Burkina Faso
Le Calypso's lovely rooms combine traditional adobe architecture with modern comforts and impeccable cleanliness. The huts are arranged around a beautiful…
Lagos
Not only a great boutique hotel with classy and comfortable rooms, the Blowfish's restaurant Purple offers nice dining by the pool with Indian, Italian…
Abidjan
La Licorne is a pretty boutique hotel run by a friendly French family. Rooms are individually decorated, and there's wi-fi, a bar, a hot tub, a book…
Cameroon
Streets ahead of anywhere else in town, it's frankly amazing that a place like this exists in a town like Maroua. French run, the Porte Mayo has bundles…
Cameroon
This brand-new hotel is easily the best option in town: a short stroll from the station and next to the main bus companies, its sparkling fan-cooled…
São Tomé & Príncipe
Here lies the great secret of Príncipe lodging. During research Makaira Lodge had just opened, and was putting the finishing touches on its dipping pool…
Gabon
Made up of 30 cottages of varying sizes, the Lopé Hôtel has a superb position overlooking a bend of the Ogooué River surrounded by dramatic hills and…
Gabon
La Baie des Tortues, with an enviable location miles from anywhere right on the beach, has 20 thatched rooms, some elevated for sea views, some round and…
Gabon
A remote option on the coast is the excellent Pongara Lodge, which is deep into the national park. With just six bungalows, the look and feel is rustic,…
Gabon
On the coast 35 minutes south of Omboué by 4WD, this simple, rustic camp has just two bungalows made of local materials, each sleeping four. A great…
Senegal
Around 22km south of Saint-Louis, this peaceful spot makes a great base for excursions into the Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie. Accommodation is…
Cabo Verde
This gorgeously renovated colonial mansion facing the ocean houses the town's nicest place to stay. Run by a Danish–Cabo Verdean couple, it has rooms with…
Cabo Verde
This heavenly little beach hideaway is a 10-minute drive or a 30-minute walk along the beach from town. The live-in Italian owners take good care of their…
Senegal
Set on the north shore of the lake, the Gîte du Lac makes a great base when you want to get away from it all. It has attractive cabins that open onto a…
Santo Antão
Located just north of the small village of Chã da Igreja (heading towards the coast), this French-run charmer has four attractive rooms (the best with…
The Gambia
If you feel like a treat, you can stay in the forest at this exclusive and very stunning eco-retreat, an elegant marriage of lavishness and respect for…
Dakar
This small, Italian-run place on Yoff beach has a bohemian vibe that draws a mix of surfers, aspiring surfers and those just wanting to enjoy the beach…
Boa Vista
Boa Vista's most magical hideaway is an abandoned fishing village converted into a stunning eco-lodge by the Italian artist owner. Inside whitewashed…
Santo Antão
The recently opened Chez Hujo has 12 brightly painted rooms, all with quality mattresses, windows overlooking greenery and private hot-water bathrooms …
Santo Antão
This delightful five-room guesthouse offers comfortably furnished rooms and a lovely terrace with sea views, not to mention a warm welcome provided by the…
Dakar
Tucked behind the Quicksilver shop is this appealing guesthouse, which has the hip-but-laid-back surfer vibe you'd expect from the well-known clothing…
Santo Antão
North of Chã da Igreja, the German-run Casa no Caminho consists of three attractive bungalows, all with fine views. The pleasant garden is strung with…
Ghana
At this welcoming B&B and riding school, three simple rooms, handcrafted from wood, stone and mud, sit in grassy grounds with stunning lake views. The…
Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts
Run by a Swedish-Gambian couple, One World offers great value for its simple but pleasantly furnished rooms. The grounds in front contain a garden and a…
Boa Vista
La Boaventura has simply furnished dorms and guestrooms – all with private bathrooms and some with sea views – set around a vine-fringed courtyard. The…
Gabon
This recently renovated, Kenyan-style beach lodge by the lagoon edge in Mayumba village has expansive gardens, charming chalets and plenty of space to…
Senegal
Step back in time at this elegant 36-room hotel, which first opened its doors back in 1850 and was a favourite with aviator Jean Mermoz and other…
The Gambia
Perched on a cliff behind Brufut beach, Austrian-run Leo's has five bright, well-appointed rooms and one suite, all attractively furnished. Rooms have…
Senegal
In the southern half of Saint-Louis, this grand 19th-century merchant's house has been transformed into a lovely boutique B&B, with three unique rooms,…
Accra
The rooms may be snug at this new Osu spot, but they're cool, spotless and pretty good value for the area. Plus there's no need to stay in your room when…
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