Must-see restaurants in Japan

  • Gochisō Tonjiru

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Tonjiru, a home-cooking classic, is a hearty miso soup packed with root veggies (such as burdock root, daikon/radish, potato and carrot) and chunks of…

  • Ganso Hakata Mentaijū

    Fukuoka

    Behind a geometric lattice facade, this shop specialises in mentaijū – mentaiko (spicy cod roe, a Fukuoka delicacy), wrapped with savoury kelp and served…

  • Yumeichi-chaya

    Kansai

    A great spot for lunch in Asuka, above a local produce market and taking advantage of all those fresh ingredients in home-cooking-style dishes. Try the…

  • Bird Land

    Ginza & Tsukiji

    Most yakitori restaurants fall into the 'cheap and cheerful' category. Not Birdland: here chefs in whites grill heirloom free-range chicken (from Ibaraki…

  • Hōuntei

    Nagasaki

    Patrons have been ordering the hito-kuchi gyōza (¥380 for 10) at this rustic hole-in-the-wall place since the 1970s. Also try butaniratoji (pork and…

  • Grill Jūjiya

    Kōbe

    In a city thick with east–west heritage, this old-fashioned charmer specialises in yōshoku, early Japanese takes on Western cooking, like hayashi rice …

  • Ahoya

    Izu Peninsula

    In a 140-year-old former shipping workshop, this funky snack shack hawks yummy tako-yaki (fried wheat balls filled with octopus) and shimodoyaki, its own…

  • Ajitsukasa Nomura

    Western Honshū

    Step into this quiet bamboo-themed restaurant to try Okayama speciality demi-katsudon – deep-fried pork cutlets with a thick, rich demi-glace sauce,…

  • No No Budo

    Fukuoka

    The IMS Building has prime skyline views from its 12th- and 13th-floor restaurants, including No No Budo. This busy self-serve gourmet buffet has about 80…

  • Komeshiruna

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This food truck – our vote for Tokyo's best – is kitted out with a real wood-burning kamada, an old-fashioned cauldron-style rice cooker. And the…

  • Gonpachi

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    This cavernous old Edo-style space (said to have inspired a memorable set in Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill) is a Tokyo dining institution, with other less…

  • Nagi

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, now has branches around the city. This tiny shop is one of the originals, located up a treacherous stairway…

  • Wanto Burger

    Kōbe

    Wanto serves towering, teetering burgers made with Kōbe beef – and also somewhat less expensive varieties of wagyū (Japanese beef). It's run by a cool…

  • Taketora

    Kyūshū

    Even tiny Ibusuki has its own ramen style. This polished shop won a prefectural ramen competition for its Kaimon-dake ramen (¥950), filled with local…

  • Manboshi

    Tokyo

    Work your way through Inokashira-kōen and then end up at this little tavern – whose name means '10,000 stars' – at the far tip of the park, just steps…

  • Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru Higashi-iru

    Harajuku & Aoyama

    This chill little restaurant serves Kyoto-style food (deceptively simple, with the ingredients – always seasonal – taking centre stage) without pretense…

  • Wabi Sabi Cafe

    Izu Peninsula

    Choose from chair or hammock to savour the serenity at this homespun cafe, part of Wabi Sabi guesthouse, serving veggie and vegan Japanese fusion food…

  • Kiraku

    Kii Peninsula

    This very popular local shop does excellent teishoku (set meals) with sashimi (raw fish), yaki-zakana (grilled fish) and more.

  • Katsu Midori

    Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

    This kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant) iis known to be far better than average, so there's nearly always a queue. Go at nontypical meal times …

  • Nakajima

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines)…

  • Nishiya

    Osaka

    A peaceful retreat from the busy streets of Shinsaibashi, this welcoming Osaka landmark serves udon noodles, hearty nabe (hot pot) dishes and shabu-shabu …

  • Mimiu Honten

    Osaka

    Mimiu is the originator of a beloved local speciality called udonsuki (a hot-pot dish of simmering chicken, clams, prawns and seasonal vegetables). After…

  • Aux Amis Des Vins

    Ginza & Tsukiji

    In pricy Ginza, this compact bistro stands out for being warm, friendly and eminently reasonable. Between lunch and dinner service, stop by for coffee and…

  • Yuwaeru Honten

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    Yuwaeru prides itself on its brown rice, and other traditional, healthy dishes. Lunch is teishoku (set meal) cafeteria-style: grab a tray and follow the…

  • Mikuniya

    Central Honshū

    Fill up on tasty bowls of sansai soba (buckwheat noodles with mountain vegetables; ¥800) at this popular place on the shopping street that runs behind…

  • Cafe Chinois Jasmin

    Western Honshū

    Although little English is spoken, wonderful set lunches and course dinners, and picture menus of the moreish dim-sum selection, make this classy…

  • Katsuretsutei Shinshigai Honten

    Kumamoto

    Come hungry to this busy local favorite for tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) in filling Zen set meals (with shredded cabbage, rice, miso soup, pickles and…

  • Yagura

    Southern Higashiyama

    Across from Minami-za theatre, this noodle specialist is an unassuming and casual spot for a filling lunch or dinner while exploring Gion. Choose from a…

  • Suzukien

    Asakusa & Sumida River

    Suzukien boasts of having the most matcha-ful matcha ice cream around, and the deep moss-green Premium No 7 (one scoop ¥585) does not disappoint. In…

  • Kōran-tei

    Kumamoto

    On a lovely courtyard behind a Swiss pastry shop on Kamitōri Arcade, this glossy restaurant has a varied menu of Chinese dumplings and noodles, but pretty…

  • Gogyō

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    Keep an eye on the open kitchen: no, that's not your dinner going up in flames but the cooking of kogashi (burnt) ramen, which this dark and stylish…

  • Sanzoku-Tabiji

    Kyūshū

    Cute roadhouse known for dangojiru (miso soup with thick-cut noodles) and takana ryōri (dishes using mustard greens), served à la carte or in hearty set…

  • Nagomi-chaya

    Nikkō

    This sophisticated arts-and-crafts-style cafe near the top of Nikkō's main boulevard serves beautifully plated meal sets with lots of small dishes to try…

  • Kamonji-goya

    Matsumoto & the Northern Japan Alps

    Kamikōchi's signature dish is iwana (river trout) grilled whole over an irori. This is the place to try it. The iwana set is ¥1500, or there's oden, soba…

  • Torigin Honten

    Nagoya

    Come here for a unique kōchin kaiseki (haute cuisine featuring free-range chicken) experience with immaculately presented servers and a wonderfully…

  • Seryō-Jaya

    Kansai

    Seryō-Jaya serves tasty soba noodles and other fare incorporating produce from the area, such as mountain-harvested mushrooms and pickled plums. There is…

  • Thai-koku

    Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

    Tuck into delicious and authentic renditions of all the Thai classics – including tom yam soup, green curry and prawn toast – at this spacious, bright…

  • Muraoka Sōhonpo

    Kyūshū

    Yōkan (sweet bean-paste gelatin) is the speciality of this lovely corner shop. It comes in different colours and flavours (traditional red bean, apple,…

  • Ishigaki-jima Kids

    Yaeyama Islands

    Tucked into a tiny, tidy space in Euglena Mall, Ishigaki-jima Kids serves good Yaeyama-style cafe fare – sōki-soba, taco rice and the like – all detailed…

  • Himitsu-dō

    Ueno & Yanesen

    Summer in Japan is synonymous with kakigōri, shaved ice topped with colorful syrups and sweetened condensed milk. So popular is Himitsu-dō, however, that…

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