Western Honshū
In the Bios Arcade across from the station, this local chain serves up the tasty Kurashiki udon speciality – called bukkake udon (from bukkakeru, meaning…
Must-see restaurants in Japan
Beppu
This friendly shop has been serving simple fugu (pufferfish) since 1958. Sit on hori-kotatsu seating and sample sashimi, karaage (fried fugu) and hirezake…
Asakusa & Sumida River
Sometarō is a fun and funky place to try okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese-style pancakes filled with meat, seafood and vegetables that you cook yourself)…
Kyūshū
Just off the samurai street, Taki-An is a lovely restaurant in another traditional house where you can sit on tatami and admire the garden over hot or…
Hakone
This friendly sushi shop is known for its aji-don (horse mackerel over rice). If you know how to fold an origami crane, ask to try their special challenge…
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
Botan has been making a single, perfect dish in the same traditional wooden house since the 1890s. Sit cross-legged on rattan mats as chicken sukiyaki …
Western Honshū
This attractive free-standing beer hall is not quite what its name promises; as its opening hours suggest, it's more of a restaurant than a drinking…
Yaeyama Islands
In Kubura, this cosy izakaya is a local favourite. Though the menu is in Japanese only, we recommend the kajiki (locally caught swordfish) sashimi and the…
Western Honshū
If you can speak some Japanese, you might indulge in a heartwarming conversation with the friendly owner of this cosy Chinese joint, who spent a year…
Downtown Kyoto
This elegant restaurant on a scenic stretch of Kiyamachi-dōri is an excellent place to try kaiseki. The modest but fully satisfying food is beautifully…
Nagoya
Atmosphere seeps from this ambitious izakaya (pub-restaurant), which transformed a decrepit building into an airy urban oasis. French-influenced dishes…
Southern Higashiyama
Squeeze in at the counter for front-row seats to watch the chefs do their thing at this lively izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery). Seafood is big on the menu,…
Nagasaki
Dating to 1642, this sky-high shippoku-ryōri restaurant started life as a high-class brothel. Japanese skills or a chaperone, and a love of food, will…
Sapporo
A grown-up twist on the classic ice-cream parlour, Milk Mura serves mugs of soft-serve ice cream accompanied by three tiny chalices of your choice of…
Hokkaidō
Testing the adage that everything is better with cheese, Karin adds local Furano cheese to its ramen. Whether that sounds amazing or awful, you know you…
Kanazawa & the Hokuriku Coast
The family behind Chōraku has been making delicate gyōza (dumplings) by hand to order for more than 50 years, and their experience has deliciously paid…
Kōrakuen & Akihabara
The owner of this charming dessert cafe is a bit of a collector, as you'll discover from the eclectic bits and bobs on display ranging from model trains…
Kyūshū
A minute's walk left from the station, this cheery shop serves a satisfying and varied menu of local specialities like katsuo-donburi (bonito on a bowl of…
Naha
Come to Mikasa hungry, and at any hour, for cheap, no-nonsense grub with the locals. All the Okinawan favourites are whipped up here – gōyā champuru and…
Ginza & Tsukiji
This beneath-the-train-tracks izakaya takes its theme literally by creating a dining area of wooden booths built beside and over a flowing stream – the…
Kansai
Just down the steps from the main gate of Kurama-dera and on the street corner, this classic old-style shokudō is a reminder of Japan before it got rich…
Kyūshū
There are less expensive soba shops in town, but at this classy place with a view of Kinrin-ko you can often watch the noodles being made in the window…
Western Honshū
The Tsuwano teishoku (a carp-themed sampler of local dishes) is recommended at this elegantly rustic restaurant, which has wooden tables and the sound of…
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa
Okay, this is a cafe and the staff really want you to order a drink (and the coffee is good) but the real reason everyone wants to come here is for the…
Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)
Atop reclaimed land near where the old centre of Minami-Sanriku stood, this new shopping village opened in 2017 to much fanfare. It represents the…
Downtown Kyoto
With its relaxed bohemian feel and Pan-Asian menu, Mew'z cafe-restaurant is a great place to break up bouts of shopping on Teramachi-dōri. Drop in for a…
Harajuku & Aoyama
Grill your own okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) at this funky place inside the gallery Design Festa. In addition to classic options (with pork, squid and…
Kamakura
This mellow day-to-evening joint serves up dishes such as pad thai (stir-fried rice noodles) and green curry, with veggies sourced from the local farmers…
Downtown Kyoto
Located beneath a gallery, this cool subterranean cafe offers a range of snacks, meals and drinks, including craft beer, coffee and cocktails, in a…
Okinawa & the Southwest Islands
If you couldn't see this hole-in-the-wall bakery, you'd smell it. It's unique for its owner's commitment to selling fresh bread throughout its opening…
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa
Uoriki is a fishmonger's run by the same family since 1905 (back when Shibuya was practically still a village). There's a restaurant hidden in the back…
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around
While it won't win any awards for its decor, this three-decades old, round-the-clock joint is beloved for its heart-warming rendition of the Korean beef…
Takayama
This workmanlike ramen joint is a little grubby, but that kind of authenticity, where locals come to drink and dine, is part of its charm: it's smoky,…
Ginza & Tsukiji
This sandwich counter, run out of an old barbershop, is a market-worker favourite, and also sells some of Tokyo's cheapest (and still decent) coffee (¥140…
Nagano Region
This establishment just before the gates to Zenkō-ji has been serving seiro-mushi (ingredients steamed in a wood-and-bamboo box) for over 150 years. The…
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa
A vegan haven in fast-food-laced Shibuya, Nagi serves up dishes like falafel and coconut curry. The most popular thing on the menu is a set meal with…
Downtown Kyoto
A short walk from Nijō-jō, this homey cafe is a great spot to lunch on mainly vegan and vegetarian homemade food, from veggie burgers with salad to vegan…
Nara
This popular spot in Naramachi is styled like an old storehouse and has just 16 seats around a counter amid dark-wood panels and an old beer sign. Indulge…
Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)
Rebuilt after a 2017 fire, Nagaya Sakaba is easy to spot due to the massive Namahage demons above the entrance. Sake flows freely once you've negotiated…
Fuji Five Lakes
Load up on some delicious, deep-fried goodness pre- or post-hike at the Idaten counter, where you can watch the chefs prepare your tempura to order. Aside…
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