Salerno
A city institution on a scruffy street, this is the archetypal centro storico trattoria, with brick arches, fake frescoes and walls hung with works by…
Must-see restaurants in Italy
Trattoria le Zie - Cucina Casareccia
Lecce
Where better to eat cucina casareccia (home cooking) than a place that feels like a private home, with patterned cement floor tiles, paper-strewn desk and…
Oltrarno
A key address on any gastronomy agenda: your taste buds will tingle at the sight of the legs of ham, conserved truffles, wheels of cheese, artisanal bread…
Oltrarno
This unassuming brick-walled osteria on one of the Oltrarno's prettiest squares is top choice for foodies in search of the Florentine tripe experience…
Olbia
This smart, intimate bistro has laid-back charm, warm service and an appetising Sardinian and Ligurian cuisine. Start with its decadent sampler of five…
Palermo
Should you devour the rose and raspberry truffle or the pistachio praline? These are the conundrums faced at this cocoa-obsessed cafe. Scattered with…
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
Immerse yourself in the tastes of Tuscany at this old-fashioned ristorante. Meat is a highlight, with cured hams and salamis served as starters followed…
Piacenza
This modern tavern run by hip young owners sits on one of the least attractive piazzas in all of Italy; inside, however, is a different story. Daily…
Catania
Weathered stairs lead up to 'The Crazy Prawn', a humble, family-run eatery loved for its fresh, affordable seafood and homestyle cooking. Don't miss the…
Southern Rome
Set in a 16th-century former stable, this family-run trattoria has been feeding hungry travellers along the Appian Way for more than a hundred years,…
Messina
With its prime location – just behind the duomo – this cosy, retro hostelry is a handy spot for classic Sicilian homecooking. The menu features all the…
Bay of Naples
Facing Pozzuoli's popular esplanade, upbeat restaurant-pizzeria Pizzaló serves decent pizzas, as well as Neapolitan dishes with unexpected twists;…
Salerno
This sprawling pasticceria (pastry shop) across from the station dates from 1966 and the decor has changed little since. The cakes are legendary, and…
Centro Storico
Boasting a location near the Pantheon and a theatrical decor, Casa Coppelle sets a romantic stage for a high-end Italian-French menu created by chef Fabio…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
Spectacularly set at the back of the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Antonello Colonna’s restaurant lounges dramatically under a dazzling all-glass roof…
Perugia
Down a narrow alleyway, this choice spot for apericena (an aperitivo so big it works as dinner) runs with a Km0 philosophy (Italian for locally sourced,…
Siena
Close to the Campo but off the well-beaten tourist trail, this enoteca (wine bar) is located in a vaulted medieval building but has a contemporary feel…
Livorno
For affordable seafood waterside, make a beeline for this sea-blue shack with plastic tables and chairs overlooking a canal in 'Little Venice'. A Marshall…
Reggio Emilia
Rows of hung prosciutto and shelves of parmigiano reggiano wheels leave no doubt as to what goes down at this good-time salumeria saddled between pretty…
Trapani
‘Tentazioni’ (temptation) is the buzzword at Gusto, a contemporary-styled space with street lounge made for romantic aperitivo-quaffing and a creative…
Oltrarno
A faithful byword for quality Tuscan fare: older Florentines mention this place with a satisfied smile. And indeed, 4 Leoni is a reliable choice for meats…
Sirmione
A small restaurant close to Sirmione’s castle with tables pushed close together and every inch of wall covered by a mix of old movie stills and wispy…
Salerno & the Cilento
After your marathon walk through the endless corridors of the Certoza di San Lorenzo, head to this uncomplicated restaurant, a short 50m stumble from the…
Siena
The huge slabs of Chianina beef displayed in a refrigerated cabinet in the window signals one of the specialities at this family-run trattoria on the…
Salerno
There’s an earthy southern Italian flavour at this classic old-town trattoria with its terrace surrounded by historic houses decorated with last night's…
Syracuse
Great food served in welcoming surroundings at honest prices: the recipe for success sounds simple but few manage it as well as this friendly, pocket…
Lucca
A clever mix of fast and slow food, this modern Eataly eatery cooks up gourmet burgers crafted from Tuscany's signature Chianina beef alongside a…
Umbria
A suit of armour stands sentry outside this friendly main-street osteria, ushering diners inside for a filling meal of earthy Umbrian fare. You can dig…
Ristorante Nascondiglio dell'Amore
Ischia
Cosy and friendly hilltop restaurant with sea and castle vistas, serving an acclaimed coniglio al'Ischitana (rabbit cooked in wine and herbs). It also…
Ragusa
Fans of the Inspector Montalbano TV series will want to eat here, as it's where scenes set in the fictional Trattoria San Calogero were filmed. In reality…
Centro Storico
A newcomer to sophisticated Via di Ripetta, this hybrid eatery and cocktail bar has a contemporary-chic interior and a menu featuring modern bistro dishes…
Modena
With only four tables, a narrow back-alley location, no real signage (you enter via the town's best gourmet deli/salumeria) and a 90-minute daily opening…
Trastevere & Gianicolo
This is your classic family affair: the menu is short, the cuisine is robust, the portions are huge and mama is cooking in the kitchen. Expect baccalà con…
Aosta
A hip but friendly spot on the main drag, L'Osteria serves heart-warming Aostian comfort fare: wild boar in pinot noir with rosemary over polenta, creamy…
Catania
Siblings Santino and Sergio make the finest granita in town, known for its especially smooth, creamy consistency. Their house-made brioche is wonderfully…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
A 1930s sign on the front of this neighbourhood trattoria says ‘Birra Peroni’ and the evocative interior feels little changed from this time. Locals tend…
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
Locals love this upmarket enoteca (wine bar) with its simple wooden tables and high-ceilinged brick-arched rooms. Dishes are designed to complement the…
Trastevere & Gianicolo
Enjoy delicious traditional cuisine with an emphasis on seafood at this upmarket trattoria. Begin with a half-dozen oysters or wafer-thin slices of raw…
Centro Storico
With its chintzy murals and fading prints, Matricianella is an archetypal neighbourhood trattoria, much loved for its traditional Roman cuisine. Its loyal…
Palermo
Wedged between Piazza Politeama and the port, homey Lo Bianco cranks out delicious Palermitan classics at very digestible prices. The caponata is good…
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