Ladakh
Thoroughly traditional but markedly more comfortable than many homestays, Gyab-Thago's rooms are airy and clean, sharing a spick-and-span bathroom. Meals…
Must-see hotels in India
Leh
There’s a great spirit to the traditional main house, open year-round and topped with a prayer room and lovely rooftop panoramas. A more modern hotel…
Varanasi
With the cleanest budget rooms in Varanasi, this simple but well-run guesthouse is one of the best deals in town, despite tiny bathrooms and iffy hot…
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh
Laboo's is not only a delightful cafe in a tree-shaded courtyard, but also has six wonderful air-conditioned rooms. Each is different, being part of the…
Udaipur
This mellow guesthouse by the lake was one of the first to open in Udaipur, and it’s still a sound choice, with an amazing variety of older and newer…
Assam
Kaziranga's original (1987) resort is slightly ramshackle but retains a cheerful colonial character, especially in the large dining and sitting rooms. The…
Ladakh
Hard to find, despite numerous signs, this three-roomed guesthouse is 10 minutes' steep walk down from Likir Gompa, or a longer drive via a dirt access…
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh
One of the better options in Mandu, this MP Tourism property, 2km south of the village, has large, lake-side gardens containing comfortable rooms in…
Mussoorie
Built by the British in the 1820s is this former house that's been converted into a sprawling heritage hotel with plenty of old-fashioned charm. Large…
Udaipur
A five-storey wedding cake of a building, Udai Kothi is a modern building (there's an elevator) with lots of traditional embellishments – cupolas,…
Mcleod Ganj
This appealingly lonely forest hideaway 1km north of McLeod has large, spotless, comfortable cottages set around the charming owner's 1907 colonial-era…
Northeast States
This family homestay by the water's edge on Thanga Island, 4km along the causeway road northeast from Moirang, will give you a taste of rustic Loktak life…
Sikkim
This cooperative consists of 10 homestays, available on a rotating basis to ensure that the benefits of tourism reach more families in the five widely…
Kashmir & Ladakh
Six attractively furnished rooms share a bathroom that's better than most in rural homes. Much of the appeal is that charming owner Gulam Ali is about the…
Rajasthan
Just under 2km from the fort is this luxurious and blissfully tranquil hotel with an inviting pool, rambling shady gardens and winter bonfires. The…
Agra
This friendly and clean retreat offers 28 modern and functional rooms with small desks and nice bathrooms, which haven't been around long enough to show…
Eastern Rajasthan
Set in 25 acres among the folds of the Aravalli Hills, the magnificent Neemrana Fort Palace surmounts a fortified rugged plateau. The fort layout rises an…
Mumbai (Bombay)
India’s most popular backpacker’s hostel chain has come to the northern Mumbai suburb of Andheri. Zostel offers a mix of women-only and mixed dorm rooms…
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh
Excellent-value hotel with cheery, bright rooms decorated with explosively loud wall murals and pictures. Rooms come with thoughtful extras such as decent…
South Goa
Goa’s largest and most luxurious resort, the opulent Leela is the place to indulge your five-star fantasies. Set amid 30 hectares of land, this enormous…
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh
Right by Madla gate, MP Tourism's Jungle Camp had just been renovated when we passed by and the results are impressive. Accommodation is in large, timber…
Agra
Matriarch Naghma and her helpful sons are the highlight of this wonderful homestay. Their comfortable home, tucked away in a residential neighbourhood 15…
Darjeeling
A surprising number of Darjeeling's best-run hotels are Tibertan-owned and this is one of them, with a tasteful Tibetan theme throughout in the rugs,…
Meghalaya
Two groups of rustic but comfortable stone-walled, tin-roofed cottages are scattered across a hillside 2km west of Cherrapunjee (3km by road). On first…
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh
A bit different to most other options, this terracotta-roofed, blue-and-white tiled building with shady verandahs is hidden away on the fringe of a small,…
Kerala
Designed in the style of a colonial-era tea-planter's bungalow, Windermere's graceful, cream-coloured villa opens onto gardens reaching down to a gorgeous…
Himachal Pradesh
Just north of Chowgan junction beside the road to Old Bir, Colonel's is an overgrown boutique homestay-hotel set in spacious south-facing gardens layered…
Mcleod Ganj
This place offers a trippy environment of mural-daubed walls for those who can handle all the steps. The 13 rooms feature 6in mattresses and there are…
Mysuru (Mysore)
The maharaja built the Green Hotel in the 1920s as a palace for his daughters. Today it's a heritage hotel set among charming gardens. Rooms in the old…
Himachal Pradesh
This impressive stone-and-wood building, owned and run by a local family, has 15 bright, spacious rooms with good, big bathrooms and fine balconies…
Srinagar
This 1910 former Maharaja’s palace is set in hectares of manicured lawns with many historical heirlooms dotted about the suave interior. Only suites…
Manali
A cult backpacker retreat, this large family guesthouse is set in orchards just two minutes' walk off the main Old Manali strip. Rooms set off south…
Kovalam
The Kovalam branch of this glitzy Indian group is nuzzled into lush grounds with direct seafront access. Individual thatched cottages come tastefully…
Assam
This popular guesthouse has a variety of rooms ranging from an appealing bamboo-stilt cottage decked out in local fabrics to budget rooms where hot water…
Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh
This stylish 11-room lodge sits under the nose of the surrounding hills in a peaceful spot 3.5km northwest of downtown Tala. The rustic-chic cottages …
Varkala
Bold pink and turquoise design meets a homely, social feel at this boutiqueified British-run yoga and surf retreat spread across lush gardens atop the…
Darjeeling
This Beatles-themed hotel certainly makes a change from standard hill-station hotel style. It's full of Fab Four memorabilia and the five small but…
West Bengal
Amid bucolic surroundings on Kolkata's northeastern fringes, this luxury ayurvedic resort offers a vast array of therapies, massages and wraps at its very…
Chennai (Madras)
Luxurious without being overly ostentatious, the glittering Coromandel offers a sensibly central top-end retreat from the city. Rooms flaunt a smart…
Leh
Apart from the parasol tables out the front, you might think you'd arrived at a colourful Tibetan monastery as you enter this photogenic two-storey feast…
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