This archaeological site 25km east of Yinchuan, right on the border with Inner Mongolia, has been turned into something of an adventure theme park. Highlights include an unrestored section of the Great Wall dating back to the Ming dynasty; a fortress with an elaborate network of underground tunnels with false passages and booby traps, which Chinese soldiers used to defend the Wall; and a mildly interesting museum showing Palaeolithic-era relics first uncovered here in 1923.
The various zones are connected by boat, or a donkey- and camel-ride; and you can also walk. The catch here is that the admission price to Shuǐ Dòng Gōu only lets you into the site itself. Everything else – the museum, fort and all transport – costs extra, making this an expensive day out. Unless you fancy an 8km walk around the complex, the cheapest way to do it is to buy the through ticket (通票, tōngpiào) for ¥120/50 (adult/child). Standard admission costs ¥60.
Buses run from Yinchuan’s southern bus terminal past Shuǐ Dòng Gōu (¥12, 40 minutes, three to eight daily) from 7.30am to 5.30pm. To return, wait by the highway and flag down any passing Yinchuan-bound bus.
