Must-see restaurants in Bosnia & Hercegovina

  • Rajska Vrata

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Beside Jahorina's longest slope, this charming ski-in alpine chalet sets diners beside a central fire with a giant metallic chimney or on the piste-side…

  • Tima-Irma

    Mostar

    Despite the constant queues at this insanely popular little grill joint, the staff maintain an impressive equanimity while delivering groaning platters of…

  • Avlija

    Sarajevo

    Locals and a few in-the-know expats cosy up at painted wooden benches in this colourful, buzzing covered yard, dangling with trailing pot plants, strings…

  • Cakum Pakum

    Sarajevo

    A collection of antique suitcases, fringed lamps, gingham curtains and bright tartan tablecloths set the scene at this hip, wee restaurant with only half…

  • Željo

    Sarajevo

    Locals are willing to brave the tourist throngs at Željo as it's quite possibly the best place for ćevapi (spicy beef or pork cylindrical meatballs) in…

  • Mala Stanica

    Banja Luka

    Housed in an atmospheric former train-station building, this upmarket restaurant is quite possibly Republika Srpska's best. Service is slick and…

  • Sač

    Sarajevo

    Our pick for Sarajevo's best burek (meat-filled pastry) and sirnica (burek with cottage cheese), Sač bakes everything ispod sača, meaning under a domed…

  • Šadrvan

    Mostar

    On a vine- and tree-shaded corner where the pedestrian lane from Stari Most divides, this tourist favourite has tables set around a trickling fountain…

  • Restoran Kruna

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Lamps wear headscarves echoing the tablecloths, while exposed brickwork displays photos of Višegrad's bridge in various historical states of disrepair…

  • Park Prinčeva

    Sarajevo

    Gaze out over a superb city panorama from this hillside perch, like Bono and Bill Clinton before you. From the open-sided terrace, the City Hall is…

  • Restoran Vrelo

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Across the river from the tekke, this restaurant serves reliably good food on terraces overlooking a horseshoe of rapids. Local trout is served in a…

  • Konoba Slapovi

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    This magical tavern is perched above a horseshoe weir with a series of little footbridges allowing strolls between placid, tree-shaded shallows. The…

  • Etno Kuća

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Wagon-wheel light fixtures and sheaves of tobacco hang from the ceiling of this rustic restaurant which sits surrounded by gardens and farmland, 3km east…

  • Čardaklije

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Though not quite in the Una Valley, this old-world-styled 'ethno village' is a brilliant place to stop for a meaty meal en route, sitting beneath oak…

  • 4 Sobe Gospođe Safije

    Sarajevo

    With its hidden garden and backstory of forbidden love, the 'four rooms of Mrs Safija' is Sarajevo's most romantic and elegant restaurant. The menu shows…

  • Mala Kuhinja

    Sarajevo

    Run by former TV celebrity chefs, the novel concept here is to forget menus and to simply ask you what you do/don't like. Spicy? Vegan? No problem, they…

  • Restaurant No. 1

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    On the main road at the foot of Visočica Hill, this local people-pleaser serves sandwiches, omelettes, pasta, grills and pizza, as well as a decent…

  • Food House

    Mostar

    For an otherwise fairly traditional Bosnian-style restaurant, Food House offers a surprisingly good selection of vegetarian dishes, with some vegan…

  • Žara iz Duvara

    Sarajevo

    Also known as The Singing Nettle, this charmingly old-fashioned place serves traditional country cooking, such as ravioli with nettle-and-garlic pesto,…

  • Gardens

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Downstairs this buzzing cafe-bar is Međugorje's top post-prayer party spot, with an atmosphere somewhere between a Louisiana speakeasy and an Irish pub…

  • Urban Grill

    Mostar

    From street level Urban Grill seems to be a slightly upmarket Bosnian fast-food place. But the menu spans a wide range (pasta, omelettes, fish and, of…

  • Pablo's

    Mostar

    Incongruously named after Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, this contemporary-looking, conservatory-style restaurant serves a mixture of Croatian, Dalmatian and…

  • Kod Muje

    Banja Luka

    Founded in 1923, Kod Muje produces square ćevapi (minced-meat lozenges) that many locals rate as Banja Luka's best. There are wonderful views across the…

  • Kod Asima

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Central Jajce's most atmospheric eatery has tables within the historical Travnik Gate and in the 17th-century Omer-bey House which adjoins it. The food…

  • Klopa

    Sarajevo

    Set in a conservatory with lots of hanging pot plants and a living wall, this modern cafe has decor that's as fresh as its menu. The lamb chops are a…

  • Mrkva

    Sarajevo

    Mrkva is a mildly fashion-conscious Bosnian fast-food chain, but this branch is the original and considered by some locals to be old Sarajevo's classic…

  • Čevabdžinica Ihtijarević

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    It might look like a 1950s diner, but this fast-food restaurant has been churning out Bosnian-style grills since 1931. For a tasty, meaty, salty, fatty…

  • Panache

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Panache is not a word that you would normally associate with whole animals spit-roasting on a street-side grill. However, meat mavens will definitely like…

  • Hindin Han

    Mostar

    This highly atmospheric old mill cottage efficiently serves a mixture of local grills, Dalmatian-style squid and fish, and Austrian-style schnitzels – all…

  • Pivnica HS

    Sarajevo

    If you like beer, huge slabs of schnitzel and live music, this vaulted-brick brewery-aligned tavern is a lively place to spend an evening. The decor is…

  • Apetit

    Sarajevo

    Friendly, attentive staff and a central location make Apetit a popular choice. The menu includes pasta, risotto and wok-fried dishes, along with a good…

  • Kod Brke

    Banja Luka

    Sure, they serve pasta and grills too, but skip straight to the pizza – delicious, thin-crusted and loaded with goodies. The front terrace is appealing in…

  • Manolo

    Sarajevo

    Manolo's colourful design and relaxed garden courtyard is backed by a crowd-pleasing menu of pizza, burgers, salads, curries and wok-fried rice. On colder…

  • Harmonija

    Mostar

    With a terrace that overlooks a bend in the Neretva River but sadly not the bridge, this very pleasant local-style restaurant serves Bosnian barbecue,…

  • Buregdžinica Bosna

    Sarajevo

    A classic spot for burek (filled filo-pastry spirals) and other freshly cooked savoury pastries, sold by weight.

  • Konoba Plava Voda

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    This tavern's tempting summer terrace occupies a perfect spot above a gurgling stream, while its interior makes valiant (if occasionally humorous)…

  • Čardak na Uni

    Bosnia & Hercegovina

    Tables spill out between flowers, trees and a couple of fountains set back from the river at this family-style (alcohol-free) cafe/restaurant. The two…

  • Kazamat

    Banja Luka

    The main restaurant is built into stone arches beneath the Kastel's original fortress walls and decorated with swords, helmets and a suit of armour. The…

  • Dunja Balkan House

    Sarajevo

    The house and garden seem to meld into one another at this smart yet relaxed restaurant-cafe with a tree growing through the roof, birdcages, decanters on…

  • Dveri

    Sarajevo

    Central yet slightly hidden, the 'country cottage' eatery has an enchanting atmosphere with bundles of herbs, corn sheaves and flower boxes around mirrors…

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