Some 100 or so of the Cossacks who died in the skirmishes during the Khmelnytsky uprising against Poland in 1648 are buried in the remarkable Pyatnytske Kladovyshche (Pyatnystke Cemetery), where stubby stone crosses stand lost in the long grass. It's a tranquil spot at any time of day but get up here at dawn or dusk for a bit of Ukrainian magic.
To reach the Cossack cemetery, look for the town market, with the word рунок across an arch. Heading from here back north to the bus station, take the next right opposite a small car park. Bear left, then left again where the road forks, and walk about 10 minutes uphill.
