With the Khao Laem Reservoir at its heart and limestone mountains all around, dramatic landscapes define this 1497-sq-km national park. But despite the park's size and potential, Kroeng Krawia waterfall, a beautiful spot with lots of little falls amidst green pools and gnarly tree roots, is pretty much all anybody ever visits. It's 33km north of Thong Pha Phum along Hwy 323. Visiting the falls used to be free, but now that admission is collected, it alone is not worth a stop at the inflated foreigner price.
A visitor centre (8am to 4pm) is across the road from Kroeng Krawia Waterfall. Stop here to hire a ranger (no set price, but payment is expected) to trek to Kra Teng Cheng waterfall. Its nine levels are accessed by an occasionally challenging 4km trail; allow three hours. The trailhead is 4km from the visitor centre. Five kilometres south is 32-hectare Kroeng Krawia Swamp, which can be productive for birdwatchers in the cool season.
Camping is allowed at both Kroeng Krawia waterfall and the swamp, but the best spot is Pom Pee, which has sunset views over the lake and also some basic bungalows. It's 9km north of Kroeng Krawia waterfall.
From Thong Pha Phum, sŏrng·tăa·ou (‘two-rows’, pick-up minibuses) pass Kroeng Krawia waterfall (40B, one hour, every 30 to 45 minutes).
