As far as Zapotec ruins go, Mogote is the oldest of the old. The site predates Monte Albán in its earliest incarnation. Indeed its inhabitants are thought to have founded and moved to Monte Albán soon after Mogote hit its peak between 650 and 500 BC. The ruins are more overgrown and less excavated than others in the area. The major surviving structure is a sizable pyramid mound behind the primary school in the village center, with a narrow ball court at its foot.
Well worth seeing is the Museo Comunitario Ex-Hacienda El Cacique, in the former landowner’s hacienda next to the primary school which has interesting material on the villagers’ 20th-century struggle for land ownership, and also displays ‘El Diablo Enchilado,’ a pre-Hispanic brazier in the form of a bright-red grimacing face. If the museum is closed, there should be a sign on the door giving a number to call for someone to open it 'in two minutes'.
To reach Mogote, 14km northwest of central Oaxaca, take a Soledad Etla-bound taxi colectivo (M$12, 30 minutes) from Trujano on the north side of Oaxaca’s 2nd-class bus station.
