Set in a sharp mountain gully 11km northeast of Kargil, the tumbledown ghost village of Hundarman is a remarkable sight. Rocky crags tower above, a steeply raked arc of stone-walled terraces sits below and virtually all of the low-ceilinged homes are stacked on top of one another, forming a fascinating core that has been (somewhat) preserved as a unique time capsule.
A guided visit organised through Roots Cafe (₹300 to ₹600 per person plus ₹1000 taxi return) is recommended, as it gets you into a two-room 'museum of memories' displaying aged utensils, touching personal mementos of former residents and projectiles that hit the village in the various Indo-Pakistan wars. The village was part of Pakistan until 1971 and was abandoned a few years after. En route to the village you pass through the minefield area that once formed the Indo–Pakistan border. And at a lonely tea shack (Km7) you can rent binoculars for glimpses of the current Line of Control at the ruined village of Brolma.
While some of Hundarman's former population now live in Pakistan, the upper village 1km beyond is still populated and is a fascinating place to wander as well, though you'll need your passport and a local guide to get past the army checkpoint.
