Just 2km from the ferry point in Naroa, the Shri Saptakoteshwara Temple is tiny, tucked away in a narrow emerald-green valley and undisturbed by anything apart from a few mopeds and the occasional tour bus. The deity worshipped at the temple is a lingam (a phallic symbol of Shiva, the destroyer), which underwent considerable adventures before arriving here.
After being buried to avoid early Muslim raids, the revered lingam was recovered and placed in a great Kadamba temple on Divar Island, but when the Portuguese desecrated the spot in 1560 it was smuggled away and subsequently lost. Miraculously rediscovered in the 17th century by Hindus, who found it being used as part of a well shaft, it was smuggled across the Mandovi River to safety in the temple. It’s said that the great Maratha rebel leader Shivaji used to come here to worship, and personally saw to it that the temple was reconstructed in 1668, creating the small, solid structure that stands here today.
To find the temple, follow the road from the ferry point at Naroa (from Divar Island) for approximately 2km, before forking right down a small tarmac lane. You’ll find the temple about 1.5km along, to your left; follow the red and green archaeology arrows until you arrive. You’ll know it from its shallow, Mughal-style dome, tall lamp tower and vaulted arches. Look out for the equestrian mural of Shivaji, above the entrance.
