This is the largest cave-art site in Xinjiang and the earliest major Buddhist cave complex in all of China. In its day, the site would have been comparable to the Mogao Grottoes, although sadly only a handful of the 236 caves are open and the once-dazzling wall art has been largely destroyed by early archaeologists and religious zealots. The drive here is still beautiful, though, crossing bleak and empty landscapes and jagged mountains.
The interior murals date from the 3rd to the 8th centuries and, as ancient Kuqa was an ethnically diverse place, artisans were inspired by Afghan, Persian and Indian motifs and styles brought via the Silk Road. The heavy use of blue pigment in middle-period murals is a Persian influence, for example. Each cave is generally built the same way, with two chambers and a central vaulted roof. The roof contains murals of the Buddha's past lives (so-called Jātaka tales) and, unique to Kizil, the pictures are framed in diamond-shaped patterns. Several caves were stripped bare by German archaeologist Albert Von le Coq in the early 20th century, only for the treasures to be destroyed during WWII. Note the richly decorated roof of Cave 8, where the Buddha's golden robes have been systematically removed over the centuries.
The site is 75km northwest of Kuqa. Private transfer is the only way to get here, and a return taxi will cost around ¥250 and takes 90 minutes each way. Most people combine the trip with one to Sūbāshí, even though you have to return to Kuqa between the two sights. Reckon on paying ¥350 for both.