A first-time guide to Rwanda

Sitting pretty in the center of Africa, tiny landlocked Rwanda serves up the best of the continent in one bite-sized adventure. A nation blessed with stunning natural attractions, a journey in the "Land of a Thousand Hills" leads you through its fertile undulating landscapes of verdant jungle-clad volcanoes, pristine montane forests and emerald tea plantations. But it’s the opportunity to hang out with mountain gorillas that’s of course Rwanda’s main lure; legitimately one of the most enthralling and humbling wildlife encounters on the planet! Add in chimpanzee sightings and safari adventures to spy the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo), and it becomes clear just how big Rwanda is for a little country.

No discussion of Rwanda can take place without mentioning the atrocities of the 1994 genocide when an estimated 800,000 victims tragically lost their lives. Thirty years on the healing continues in a country lauded for its resilience and reconciliation. This has paved the way for a new chapter in the nation’s history, which not only is widely regarded as one of Africa’s safest countries for travelers, but one of its most prosperous, cleanest and greenest with progressive environmental and sustainability policies in place alongside gender equality rights.

When should I go to Rwanda?

The good news is that if you’re here to see the mountain gorillas, Rwanda is very much a year-round destination. But just how muddy you’re prepared to get is another matter! The jungle trails are always a bit of a slip and slide but come the rainy season (March to May and September to November) things are taken to a whole new level.

Avoid the mud by visiting during the dry season (June to September), but with that comes bigger crowds. Aim for September to coincide your visit with the Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony, one of the biggest events of the year when crowds gather for the annual naming of newborn gorillas accompanied by festivities and celebrity visits.

For a cheaper visit, aim for the offseason (November to May) when there is a 30% discount on gorilla permits, which are much easier to secure.

The first rainy season from March to May meanwhile is a good time to see chimpanzees, who come down from the treetops to feed on the fruits at this time of the year. If you’re here for the Big Five in Akagera National Park, the dry season is the best time to visit.

How much time should I spend in Rwanda?

While theoretically – if moving at breakneck speed – you could tick off the capital Kigali and Volcanoes National Park within a few days, to do that would be a disservice to what Rwanda offers. Hence a week is about the bare minimum, but two (or better, three) weeks is about right.

One week would not only allow you to take in Kigali’s sights and cosmopolitan food-and-drink scene, but also allow gorilla trekking, volcano hikes and a trip to see the chimpanzees. For two weeks, not only will you be able to take in all the above but experience some of its cultural activities, the World Heritage-listed memorial genocide sites and royal kingdoms but get you to Akagera National Park to see all Africa’s most famous animals.

Is it easy to get in and around Rwanda?

Defying any misconceptions that travel in Africa is all about vast distances across dry, dusty terrains, Rwanda is much more of a self-contained destination where it’s rare to spend more than a few hours to half a day on the road. Here most travel is along well-maintained sealed tarmac, ensuring smooth drives by private car or public buses, which run between the major towns.

Kigali International Airport is the arrival point for those flying in, but for overlanders heading to/from Uganda for Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the most popular border crossing is Cyanika in the north.

Top things to do in Rwanda

Track mountain gorillas in their natural habitat

In terms of wildlife encounters, you don't truly know what adrenaline is until you’ve found yourself face to face with a 200kg (440lb) silverback gorilla! Hearing the cracking and crashing of bamboo to see these beautiful giants casually emerging through the thickets to strut mere meters from you is as thrilling as it is humbling. Likewise, you may not truly grasp the idea of what "cute" really is until you see a fuzzy baby gorilla somersaulting through the jungle, or the idea of kinship as you observe the dynamics of a family of 20-plus gorillas who make camp along the slopes of Volcanoes National Park.

But costing US$1500 for the opportunity ain't cheap, so is it worth it? Absolutely. Every. Cent. Sure it’s an exorbitant amount of money – we get it – but think of it this way: with less than 900 of these critically endangered creatures on Earth, here’s your chance to play a role in ensuring the survival of the species; paying your way to protect them from the very real threat of poachers. But if it’s too much, budget travelers can use Rwanda as a platform to skip across to neighboring Uganda for gorilla tracking – but there it’s not always as easy to see them.

Hit the hiking trails in the Virunga Mountains

Even if you’re not here for the gorillas, don’t leave Rwanda without setting out on some of the trails in Volcanoes National Park; if you’re very lucky, you may encounter gorillas by chance.

Forming an evocative backdrop to the region here is a chain of five dormant volcanoes that stretch across the borders with Uganda and the DRC reaching altitudes of over 4000m (13,123ft). Treks vary from a half-day to more hardcore overnight expeditions. The most popular is the hike up to Mt Bisoke (3711m/12,175ft) to see its volcano crater, though at these altitudes it’s not for the fainthearted. More challenging options include Mt Karisimbi (4507m/14,787ft), the tallest of the volcanoes, or Mt Gahinga (3474m/11,398ft) and Mt Muhabura (4127m/13,540), which can be climbed as a pair.

Slightly easier is the pilgrimage up to see the grave of wildlife warrior Dian Fossey (author of Gorillas in the Mist) who in 1985 was tragically murdered in her pursuit to protect gorillas from poachers. She was buried alongside her beloved Digit, her favorite gorilla, who was killed by poachers in 1977.

Relax in Kigali

Ringed by rolling green vistas, Kigali gets our vote as Africa’s most scenic capital. It’s also one of its most safest and greenest, making it a relaxed first port of call. Here you can enjoy stylish contemporary restaurants, local street food, lively nightlife and superb coffee served on rooftops that feature views of Rwanda's hills.

With its varied museums and galleries there’s plenty of culture to take in along with top-notch shopping to pick up traditional African crafts. But perhaps the most impactful aspect of a trip to Kigali is a visit to its genocide museum to learn about one of the worst atrocities to take place in the 20th century. Making up one of several genocide sites around the country – which have been collectively granted World Heritage listing – it offers a sobering account of the events of 1994 where over 800,000 Rwandans lost their lives in only 100 days.

Monkey around in Nyungwe Forest National Park

One of Africa's oldest and largest protected montane rainforests is World Heritage-listed Nyungwe National Park, home to a stunning biodiversity with some 13 species of primate, 1000-plus species of plant, 300 birds, 75 mammals and 300 butterflies.

But the undoubted stars of Nyungwe are the chimpanzees, which, if you’re lucky to get a close encounter, is pretty much on equal (and certainly more affordable at US$150) to seeing the mountain gorillas. Sharing a remarkable 99% of our DNA, their resemblance and behavior to humans is uncanny, so hanging out with our closest relatives is a truly unforgettable experience. Also highly recommended is making the trek to see the only habituated group of Angolan colobus in the world, a very wise-looking species of primate, with a striking shaggy black-and-white coat who live in troops as large as 700.

No visit to Nyungwe is complete without doing its canopy walk, a suspension bridge that bounces you up above the treetops to provide an all immersive, bird's-eye view of this dense tract of forest. It’s a great destination for hiking too, with 17 trails leading through Nyungwe’s varied habitat of rainforest, bamboo and wetlands, all in the company of expert guides who are able to explain the finer details of its incredibly diverse ecosystem.

Further to this, rumors remain of park management exploring options to introduce other high-profile species from elephant to Western lowland gorillas – which, if happens (still a long way off…), will boost both Nyungwe Forest National Park and Rwanda’s tourism to new heights.

Tick off the Big Five in Akagera National Park

Heading east, Rwanda’s rolling landscapes give way to lowland savannah as you hit the open grasslands of Akagera National Park. While it has all the animals you’d hope to see in Africa – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, giraffe, hippo, zebra, antelope etc – just don’t come expecting the Serengeti. This is a more low-key affair where sightings are much fewer, but at the same time it makes it much more rewarding; particularly since there are fewer camera-toting tourists. On my last visit I had the fortune to encounter a massive pride of 20 lions when it was just me, my driver and a guide there – an unforgettable experience you’d never find in the big parks.

As well as day safaris, activities take in anything from night drives and boat journeys to behind-the-scenes tours, all which offer unique perspectives. And within just 100km (62 miles) of Kigali, it’s an accessible destination you can easily visit with a night or two.

Hang out in Lake Kivu

Given it’s a landlocked nation one can be forgiven for being surprised that Rwanda offers its own brand of tropical island bliss. But at ocean-sized Lake Kivu, you can sip sunset cocktails amid white sands and palm trees in Rubavu (aka Gisenyi), which has long been the place for locals and travelers to head for some beachside R&R. Covering a massive 2700 sq km (1042 sq miles), Kivu offers beach resorts, hot springs and island-hopping to go with its 227km (141-mile) Congo-Nile Trail, which you can traverse on foot or by bicycle, an epic overland adventure following the Congo-Nile divide.

My favorite thing to do in Rwanda

How can one pick anything but encountering mountain gorillas as their favorite thing to do in Rwanda? Or seeing chimpanzees, another genuine bucket list wildlife encounter? Both are up there as my favorite travel experiences of all time.

But one thing I also absolutely love about Rwanda is its community-run ecotourism initiatives that run as social enterprises to give travelers a chance to actively engage with the local culture. From learning to make banana beer with local woman in Red Rocks at Nkotsi Village, to hanging out in milk bars on a walking tour in Kigali with Nyamirambo Women's Center, these are local one-off experiences you won’t get anywhere but Rwanda. From Kigali you can also make a trip to visit the Twa minority groups, which offers fascinating insights to this heavily marginalized ethnic minority. Get in touch with Pygmy Survival Alliance for more info.

How much money do I need for Rwanda?

Rightly or wrongly, the fact people fork out $US1500 for that once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to track gorillas has to a certain extent set the bar high in terms of costs in Rwanda. Billed as a boutique destination, it’s true Rwanda has some truly memorable luxury escapes, but that doesn’t there’s not plenty for budget travelers too, with some great independent-run guesthouses that offer a good level of comfort.

• Hostel room: 41,000RFr (US$30) 

• Basic double hotel room: 68,000RFr to 200,000RFr (US$50 to US$150)

• Luxury hotel with full board: 400,000RFr to 1,350,000 RFr (US$291 to US$985)

• Coffee: 2700RFr (US$2)

• Sandwich: 4000RFr (US$2.92)

• Dinner: 13,500RFr to 70,000RFr (US$10 to $51)

• Beer at a bar: 5000RFr (US3)

• Chimpanzee permits: US$150

• Gorilla permits: US$1500

How do I arrange gorilla permits?

It’s best to go online with Visit Rwanda. Theoretically 96 are available each day and book out well in advance during high season, so make sure you’ve organized this in advance.

Am I guaranteed to see gorillas?

These being wild creatures means there are never guarantees, but you would be very unlucky not to. If you were to miss out on them you are able go the next day or otherwise receive a 75% refund – whatever you prefer.

Are there any age restrictions?

You need to be at least 15 years of age for gorilla tracking.

Can less mobile people go?

It can be physically demanding – especially in the rainy season – with dense, humid conditions combined with muddy, steep up and down trails. Gorilla trackers will locate the position of each of the 12 habituated families the night before, hence visitors will have a reasonable idea of how far they expect to trek. The less mobile walkers will be grouped to the families covering less distances.

While walkers are provided with hiking sticks, those needing further assistance can hire a porter to lend you a hand or assist with luggage. For those unable to walk, porters can also hoist trekkers in chairs, making it an activity for everyone.

What should I pack?

Good hiking shoes are essential to go with long pants tucked into your socks to protect against insects etc. Also be sure to pack a raincoat/jacket/poncho along with hats, sunglasses, sunscreen and plenty of water.

Are there any health restrictions?

Both mountain gorillas and chimpanzees are susceptible to the same infectious diseases as humans. Hence if you have flu-like symptoms it’s essential to report this so as to not risk the health of the entire species. While trekkers are no longer required to get PCR tests for Covid, it remains compulsory for all participants to wear masks for the one-hour duration they are in the presence of both gorillas and chimpanzees.