A first-time guide to Halong Bay, Vietnam

Located in northeastern Vietnam, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay is home to over 1900 towering limestone islands and islets rising from deep emerald waters. Spread across 1500 sq km (589 sq miles) in the Gulf of Tonkin, from above, the islands resemble the undulating bodies of dragons – “Halong” means “descending dragon” in Vietnamese.

According to legend, the Jade Emperor sent the Mother Dragon and her offspring to aid the Vietnamese people in a battle against foreign invaders, and they have remained here ever since in the form of jungle-clad islands.

Today, Halong Bay is a must-see destination for its otherworldly beauty – it was the filming location for some scenes in the 2017-movie Kong: Skull Island – with caves, beaches and range of outdoor activities, all just a few hours from Hanoi.

When should I go to Halong?

Halong’s scenery changes with the season and there is beauty to be found practically year-round. There are two main seasons: winter from November to March with average temperatures ranging from 15–20ºC (59–68ºF) and summer from May to September with balmy temperatures from 25–30ºC (77–86ºF). June to August are the wettest months.

For adventurers, summer is ideal for water sports, including kayaking and swimming. The colorful Carnaval Ha Long is also held at the end of April/early May. However, photographers might prefer visiting in winter, as early mornings regularly see misty conditions, creating eerie scenes of fog-shrouded islands in the distance.

How much time should I spend in Halong Bay?

Most travelers come to Halong Bay to cruise. For those pressed for time, there are half- and full-day trips that provide the briefest glimpse of the islands, although this makes for a very long day when you include traveling to and from Hanoi.

Most travelers will opt for an overnight cruise, with transport from Hanoi leaving early morning and embarkation at around noon, dropping visitors back to the pier at the same time the next day. Usual activities on an overnight cruise include touring a cave, visiting a beach or floating pearl farm, a cooking demonstration on board, and squid fishing at night. The packed itinerary can make the cruise feel rushed with very little time to simply sit, relax, and enjoy the incredible views. While this is the most popular option, the drawback is that most boats will travel along the same route, stopping at the same stops at roughly the same time.

To break away from the crowds, seriously consider a cruise of two or more nights. This greatly increases the itinerary options, allowing the boat to travel further into the bay (or even into neighboring Bai Tu Long or Lan Ha bays) with leisurely stops at floating villages, secluded beaches, and less-touristed sites. As a bonus, there are usually fewer guests on these multi-night cruises.

If time is your friend, consider adding a day or two in the seaside city of Halong, which is developing nicely as a tourist destination in its own right.

How do I choose the right cruise?

There are reportedly between 200–300 overnight boats that ply the waters around Halong Bay, so travelers are spoiled for choice at every price point. You should first determine whether you’re able to cruise for more than one night. Believe us when we say that a longer cruise leaves a completely different (and much more favorable) impression of Halong Bay. You’ll then want to select your ship, which ranges from the no-frills to 5-star luxury with practically all the amenities you could dream of. Be sure to ask whether the cruise price includes transportation to and from Hanoi. Lastly, if being on the ship you selected is important to you, book directly with the cruise company instead of through a tour operator – they have been known to switch guests without notice to different boats to meet minimum numbers of passengers.

Many cruise companies also operate on a charter basis. If you’re traveling in a group of at least 8–10 people, it’s worth looking into companies like Bhaya Cruises or the ultra-private Emeraude Premium, which serves just two passengers.

Day cruises can be booked directly with cruise companies or travelers can show up at the Halong International Cruise Port to buy tickets, with prices starting from 440,000d (US$18) for a very basic boat through to 1,200,000d (US$49) with lunch, guide, and better amenities.

Is it easy to get in and around Halong?

Being a major tourist destination, getting to Halong is very easy. From Hanoi (170km/105 miles), you can go by shuttle bus (typically provided by the cruise lines), private car or even public bus, with an average travel time of about 2 hours if taking the Hanoi-Hai Phong Expressway. Halong City is also served by the Van Don International Airport, located about 50km (31 miles) from the city, with domestic flights from several major Vietnamese cities.

For those with deeper pockets, Hai Au Aviation offers flights between Halong Bay and Hanoi aboard 12-seater Cessna amphibious airplanes, including a short scenic flight above the islands.

Top things to do in Halong Bay

Take a scenic flight over the bay

From water level, the islands are impressive, with their unique formations and imaginative names like Fighting Cock, Calf’s Head, Stone Dog and Incense Burner (featured on the back of the Vietnamese 200,000d note). However, for a completely different perspective, take to the skies on a 25-minute scenic seaplane flight and the islands start looking more like mini mountain ranges snaking through the sea. The water landings and take-offs alone are almost worth the money.

Get a bird’s eye view of Halong on a cable car ride

Alternatively, the Queen Cable Car is a great way to get panoramic views of Halong Bay and Halong City from above. Part of the Sun World Halong complex, the cable car can fit a record-breaking 230 passengers per cabin and travels between the two halves of Halong City, with Sun World’s Amusement Complex on one side and Ba Deo Hill on the other, with lots of outdoor games and theme park activities on either end.

Explore Halong City

More than the gateway to Halong Bay, Halong City has its fair share of tourist attractions. Hike up to the 200m-high (656 ft) viewpoint on Bai Tho Mountain for sweeping views. Originally called Truyen Dang (meaning “lightning”), the mountain was home to an important guard post of the Northeast gate thousands of years ago, whose task was to light the way for boats on the bay. Families will enjoy the Sun World Halong theme park, with games, roller coasters, a ferris wheel, and one of the largest water parks in Southeast Asia. There’s also the excellent Quang Ninh Museum and Library, designed by Spanish architect Salvador Perez Arroyo, and a fun night market inside the Halong Marine Plaza.

My favorite things to do in Halong

Other than cruising (which is a bucket-list experience), there is so much to do on land as well. One of my favorite places to relax is at the Japanese-style Yoko Onsen Quang Hanh, about 15 minutes from Halong. Surrounded by mountains and forests, this onsen is known for its natural, mineral-rich water. As a bonus, this experience costs a fraction of what a comparable onsen stay would be in Japan.

I also love sampling all the Halong specialties like bun cu ky (stone crab soup) made from stone crabs found in the mangroves around Halong. The soup comprises rice vermicelli, tomatoes and fresh herbs in a fragrant broth, all topped with stone crab meat. Try it at Nha Hang Thanh Loc or at Bun cu ky Ba Lan at Bai Chay Beach. Other favorites include grilled squid and Halong-style squid cakes, made of minced squid that’s formed into chewy patties and deep-fried. They can be eaten as a snack or with steamed rice flour crepes as a meal.

What should I pack for Halong Bay?

If traveling in summer aboard a cruise, you won’t need anything extra other than your swimsuit. Some of the islands have caves or viewpoints, so sturdy shoes are recommended. At other times of the year, evenings and early mornings can be chilly, so bring a light jacket.

How much money do I need for Halong Bay?

Most travelers to Halong Bay will be on a package cruise, with the benefit of all-in-one pricing covering accommodation, food and activities. Extras (spa, kayaking and alcohol) can be paid for by credit card on most cruises. Bring cash for tips and for restaurant meals if exploring Halong City:

• Four-hour join-in day cruise: starts at 440,000d (US$18)

• One-night cruise aboard a 3-star boat: 3,500,000d (US$140) per person

• Basic hotel room in Halong City: 500,000d (US$20)

• Bowl of cu ky crab noodle soup: 50,000d (US$2)

• Average cruise tip per person, per night on a basic boat: 100,000d (US$4)

• 25-minute scenic seaplane flight: 2,400,000d (US$98)

• Queen Cable car ride: 300,000d (US$12)