A first-time guide to Armenia

On Europe’s far eastern flank, Armenia is one of the few remaining countries on the continent where you can truly get off the beaten track. (Think: Albania five years ago.)

Rich in history and culture, this captivating country in the Caucasus is dotted with enchanting stone monasteries, many dating back more than eight centuries. Its growing capital, Yerevan, is packed from (tuff-volcanic-stone) wall to wall with galleries, performance venues and feast-worthy restaurants. And – appropriately for such a mountainous country – there’s ample hiking, too, with plenty of cozy mountain resorts and homestays to spend a few nights.

But the best part about traveling to Armenia is having the opportunity to chat with locals. Their pride and passion for their homeland is fascinating, and they might make you feel like an Armenian yourself.

Here’s everything you need to know before you visit.

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When should I go to Armenia?

Armenia is hopping in summer – though it’s also very hot, with July and August temperatures in Yerevan hovering around 30°C (86°F). Summer is also time for fun festivals like Vardavar (during which locals run around tossing buckets of water at each other – and likely you), and for cooling off in Lake Sevan.

You can avoid the heat by visiting in in May or June, when it’s usually between 10°C (50°F) and 30°C (86°F) in Yerevan. Springtime is also wonderful for hiking across Armenian hilltops and valleys, which are speckled with millions of wildflowers. (Locals brew the flowers into tea or make them into jewelry.) Fall is another wise time to visit since there are fewer crowds and usually pleasant temperatures.

The long winter (November to March) isn’t ideal as many tourist amenities shut down and the temperatures can drop below freezing. If you do find yourself in Armenia at that time, stick to Yerevan, where there are plenty of ways to warm up with a glass of wine. Some great spots include In Vino wine bar and Ulikhanyan Jazz Club.

How much time should I spend in Armenia?

Many people pop over to Armenia after visiting Georgia – it’s a quick and easy trip over the land border to Armenia’s UNESCO-listed monasteries Sanahin and Haghpat. If you’re short on time, fly directly into Yerevan’s Zvartnots Airport, which has lately been welcoming more and more flights from Europe and the Middle East.

If you have time, spend a week or two circling Armenia in a car – the country is slightly smaller than Belgium, so it won’t take too much time.

Is it easy to get in and around Armenia?

Armenia is still connected by Soviet-era minibuses called marshrutky, which can be a frustrating mode of travel as they don’t have fixed schedules. Trains, which run between Yerevan and Batumi in Georgia with a few stops along the way, are extremely slow, so aren’t recommended if unless you have ample time.

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The easiest option to get around Armenia is via car or van tours. You’ll find plenty of operators with reasonable prices around Republic Square in Yerevan.

Yerevan itself is very walkable, and ride-hailing apps GG and Yandex are a common and affordable way to get around (Armenia doesn’t have Uber). Yerevan also has spiffy new city buses and a one-line subway, though you won’t likely need them if you stick to exploring the city center.

If you have time, the best way to explore Armenia is by renting a car from the airport or through an agency in Yerevan. Having your own vehicle will give you the freedom to stop when you want and hike to remote monasteries. There are also a few cool campgrounds for road trippers on a budget, including Crossway Camping, where you can stay in a hippie bus, or Camping 3 Gs, which has epic views.

Top things to do in Armenia

A visit to Armenia will undoubtedly include a visit to one of its marvelous stone monasteries – after all, Armenia is the world’s first Christian nation. Some of the finest are within a couple of hours from Yerevan, including Noravank, which shines gold at sunset, and Khor Virap, where Surp Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned before convincing King Tiridates III to declare Armenia Christian in 301. Most monasteries are located in canyons or on mountaintops; explore them on foot with the help of local hiking app HIKEArmenia.

A trip to Armenia’s cities is wonderful if you’re into art and high culture. Yerevan is filled with art galleries dedicated to notable Armenian artists like Sergei Parajanov – one of the world’s great film directors – and performance venues like the grand National Opera and Ballet Theatre. In Armenia’s second city, Gyumri, you can wander around tuff-black-stone buildings and visit the Aslamazyan Museum, which is dedicated to two artist sisters, one of whom many consider Armenia’s Frida Kahlo.

Armenia is a burgeoning wine destination and home to the world’s oldest winery, inside the Areni-1 Cave. You can sip Armenia’s unique areni grape wine among vineyards at Momik Wine Cube.

Or hit the trails. Surrounded by forested paths, Dilijan is a great mountaintop base; you can also hike up Mt Aragats, Armenia’s tallest mountain. If you’re up for a (much) bigger challenge, you can through-hike the Armenian section of the epic Transcaucasian Trail.

My favorite thing to do in Armenia

For those who lived through the Soviet days, decaying brutalist stone architecture might be considered a painful reminder of the USSR’s collapse. For me, as a Canadian, exploring abandoned Soviet structures is my favorite thing to do in Armenia.

Yerevan’s Children’s Railway still runs and is fantastic, as is the pyramid-like Cafesjian Center for the Arts (aka the Cascade), which has been reimagined as an amazing art gallery and sculpture garden. Outside the capital, check out the telescopes around Byurakan. There are sometimes tours of the Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory and – depending on the guard’s mood – you have a good shot of visiting the abandoned Radio Optical Observatory 54.

How much money do I need for Armenia?

Armenia has its own currency, the dram, easily exchanged at money changers in Yerevan or withdrawn from ATM with little or no fees. Credit cards are widely accepted in Yerevan, but not outside the capital.

While Armenia might be cheap by European standards, prices are still higher than many nearby Central Asian countries. The most expensive place is Yerevan, and there are several high-priced resort areas like Dilijan in the north, as well as along the western beaches of Lake Sevan.

If you’re on a budget, try a homestay or B&B – these allow you to connect with locals and often feature the option of learning to make Armenian dishes like gata (cake).

• Hostel room: Around 7500AMD (around US$20)

• Basic room for two: Starting at 30,000AMD ($80)

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): Starting at 20,000AMD ($50)

• Public-transport ticket: 300AMD ($1)

• Soorch (Armenian coffee): 500–800AMD ($2)

• Lahmajun (Armenian flatbread): 500–1500AMD ($2–3)

• Dinner for two: Around 7500AMD ($20) and up

• Local beer at the bar: 800AMD ($2)

Is Armenia safe?

Tensions have been rumbling with neighboring Azerbaijan since the fall of the Soviet Union, leading to multiple wars and frequent fire across Armenia’s eastern border. In 2023, Azerbaijan seized the disputed territory of Nagorno-Karabakh; discussions of a permanent peace deal remain ongoing. Whether a peace deal is reached or not, Armenia is generally safe to visit, though it’s a good idea to avoid the border areas with Azerbaijan.

Can you travel between Armenia, Azerbaijan and Türkiye?

You cannot travel by land or air between Armenia and Azerbaijan directly, though you may connect through a third country like Georgia. Flights are available to and from Türkiye; the land border is only open to those who aren’t traveling on Armenian or Turkish passports.

Land borders are open with Georgia and Iran, but be sure to carefully research visa requirements if thinking about a trip to the latter.

How much English is spoken in Armenia?

Since the principal languages spoken are Armenian and Russian, fluent English is rare in Armenia, Yet don’t be discouraged. You should be fine with English in Yerevan, and Armenians are famous for making themselves understood using any means possible, including their hands.

Do I have to cover up?

Due to their Christian Orthodox faith, Armenians tend to dress more conservatively and show less skin than in Western Europe. But things are starting to change, due in large part to the influx of liberal Russians fleeing the war with Ukraine. Nevertheless, it’s still a good idea to dress respectfully, especially when entering a church.